Mosi Oa Tunya
The smoke that thunders is the local name for Victoria falls. May have been a quote from Livingstone says vague memory.
No, I see that his quote was...
The most wonderful sight I had witnessed in Africa. No one can imagine the beauty of the view from anything witnessed in England. It had never been seen before by European eyes, but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight. This he wrote in 1857. 16 Nov.
So mosi... is the African name for the falls meaning the smoke that thunders.

Took a 10km ride down to the falls this morning. Got to the Royal Livingstone Hotel at around 0730hrs. Very posh but a lot younger than I expected. There was an original rest house along the river, but story is that travellers often stayed at Livingstone town to avoid the malaria. Still seem to be many in the town in the evenings.

There is a very pleasant foot/cycle/golf cart path through the trees where from the main road you can make your way through the shady trees past lavish looking apartments more like high class two storey homesteads. Baboons and monkeys galore, zebra and antelope share these grounds.  Folks were breakfasting on the terrace overlooking the tamed at   this time, Zambezi, while I took a dip in the pool, also above the river's edge and (after my complimentary coffee, fruit juice and pastries, organised by Kennedy one, the night manager) well large enough for a decent swim. Tame because it's level is low before the coming rains.

This makes for the ultimate playground for dipping in the rock  pools way above the sheer drop into gauge one, and the rafting going on in wild waters of the falls gauges below.  A rock pool swim I had to do after a buzz of a time in the rapids yesterday. If you walk to the falls views, charged at 20US or 5 kwacha for a cold drink the views are stunning, including the rain or moon bow day or night. Much clearer from the Zambian side, especially during high waters when the spray can obscure the views especially from the Zimbabwe which is how it was when Julie and I where there more than 15 years ago. Beyond the walkways on the upstream side, various pools can be reached and swum in. I met with Kennedy from stall 45 of the curio stores behind the falls entrance. He and I swam in two of the pools which are of crystal clear waters abundant of tiny and small fish. Fish eagles can be seen swooping about. A cormorant landed by me having just caught an unfortunate swimmer, promptly swallowed the same, then spread his wings for a quick dry. Dreams are made of this.

A Cormorant landed and promptly swallowed the fish then spread his wings to dry.

 

The white water rafting yesterday was a real treat. First time and a massive rush at times. All the rapids are navigable at this time, some being way challenging. They rated 1 to 6 with many at or near the high end. Major bouncing, drenching, gasping, swimming, both voluntarily  and not. The water is an ideal swimming temperature and often the only way to cool down on the 31km stretch of world class fun.

All 7 of us were tipped out of the capsized raft made from tough inflatable rubber, early on and a tumbling white water gasping swim followed rapidly. One has to turn to try and move downstream feet first, the reason being,  better to step onto a rock feet first rather the head first.
I noticed my watch was missing from my wrist straight away. Its one  I gifted to John, my late step father. When he died, I was able to keep it. Not hugely expensive, just emotional value on a good Citizen solar powered watch. Whilst clambering on again, I did'nt quite make it over the gunnels and back onto the raft before the next rush of water swallowed me once more but this time a good breath helped me to relax whilst whizzing and bouncing along as though in a giant washing machine. Having completed  mourning the loss of my watch whilst grabbing a lift from the passing raft, I was hauled back in and presented with same and brightened considerably.  Miracles do happen. The watch had some how  stayed aboard the capsized raft. Thank you Lord.
Rafting was really the most wonderful experience. Highly recommended, especially if you, like me love the water and to swim. Well swim as much as you can while locked into a well designed life vest and bumper helmet. Without the vest, the under water bits make go on way too long. Initially I spluttered a bit, but soon learned to take a good breath on the fast approaching rough stuff. Nose plugs are likely useful at times. All the rapids have names which describe them in a way, often suggesting a wild time and never disappointing. Devil this and Oblivion that, etc.
A good appetite is met with a generous picnic lunch with apples and cold fruit juice. Good footwear is a bonus, better than my socks when it came to clambering over the hot  black rocks, once for lunch and another time when we had to bypass one very wild and boiling suicidal section. Got to have been the most thrilling lifetime experience for me, and there have been a good few.

South Bank of Chobe River.  Just arrived in Botswana.  Namibia is on the opposite bank. Sat here and had a bottle of cider while I waited for the night bus for my journey to Francistown Bots.

6.30pm 24th Nov.
I'm sitting on what I thought was the Zambezi's south bank listening to snorting hippos. Turns out it was the south bank of the Chobe River which seperates Botwsana from the corner of Namibia leading to the Caprivi Strip.
So, first day in Botswana after having zipped it seems, through Zambia.
Had my trip's first cider for 20 Pula, a bit steep but lovely setting. Seems  folks use their own speed boats as well as the downstream ferry to cross the river.  Think its around 14 to the pound, so not dear by UK prices. Gather one can find pubs here where beers are half again at ten Pula. But without the view and manicured lawns.
Have decided to grab an overnight bus to Francis town and will then consider my options. Driver said that often Elephant and lion are seen in the headlights. Jolly hot earlier. Expecting some roasting rides and no rain to speak off yet. Just a few drops here and there, at times U have been praying for it above the sweltering tarmac. Early morning and night rides may well be called for. As long as the roads are good and quiet, riding at night can be most rewarding. Following my nose and the stars.
All for now.
S.