Its 0245hrs and I'm laying on a sofa in an open to the elements living area of the Crocodile Camp alongside the Ruaha River 12 kms from the Ruaha Mbuyuni, the latter of those two the name for a Boabab tree. Busy chatting with Gutram and have been doing so for what seems several hours. It is now 0435hrs.
Got to sleep earlier in the tent but have woken with stomach cramp which has been severe. Could be a malaria symptom, or something I have drunk or eaten. Anyhow the pain has forced me up and I wondered into the living area and woke Gutram and his brother who produced a paracetomol which I have gratefully taken along with an ibuprofen I have. To avoid Malaria hopefully, i am taking Doxycycline which I gather is 90 % effective but reduced on Alcohol intake and I have enjoyed the occasional bottle of very good Safari beer. There are reported stomach cramps from this medication too so all a bit uncertain at the moment. Lay chatting last night until 0500hrs and took another paracetomol then. Ongoing cramp, but mild at present 0830hrs and I have been given a couple more tabs for the rd.
May hang about for a little breakfast and number two's to see what happens. I'm about 12km from Umbuyuni with over a hundred to Iringa. Now sitting on a bungalow porch overlooking the wide, quite fast flowing river which contains many crocs I'm told. Here we are on the steeper concave bank, and no crocs visible. Elephants also roam this territory, but this morning I have seen only monkeys. One of which is cautiously approaching and scampered by. There are many and seem to be getting up to typical, quite naughty, monkey business. No qualms about nicking stuff.
Yesterday was a slog of a cycle through the hills and happily passed the mountains. The rd follows the river coarse and a lot of the time was spent in or around the river valley. Drinking water is always a priority for me, so whenever there is a refill opportunity, I'm at it in a flash and at the same time joyfully binge on the precious stuff I had earlier been sipping cautiously.
Yesterday I passed a travel in and bought a warm Fanta Orange. Their generator, normally operating the fridge had busted because they had ignorantly run it without oil. I asked how their water was and Christina the manager showed me round the back and a little up the hill to a plastic pipe protruding from the ground. This pipe must divert spring water and although a little coloured from the rain, is surely good to drink. I cannot rely on bottled water for not being able to carry enough and I'd have spent a small fortune by now. Its just not always available and about 50p a litre. Best water has been from the manually pumped ground wells which have seen a massive installation program during this last year I read. Great work, a real bonus for the rural folk. I'm on the look out for a similar hand pump to use with the river water back at the farm in Magalies. I want to install a shower so need to pump water into an tank say 6 to 7 feet high with a simple flap and hole arrangement. Any suggestions welcome.
This morning it is a cloudy sky with a handy westerly breeze so hopefully get going again soon if my tummy settles.
Would like to make Iringa by this evening so will probably try to hitch a lift from another lorry if possible. Not all can carry a bike and often they have passengers already. Need to be lucky.
Got away from the Crocodile camp after 10am once the proprietor had cautioned me again about all the highway robbers I was likely to meet. If so, these robbers must be a very friendly peaceful lot. Kept thinking that she was emphasising how safe her premises were compared to the world outside. Got my first puncture yesterday and finally fixed same by the third time.
Ended up discarding a round patch which kept lifting. Square one seems to have done the trick.
Now typing this at 1950hrs having just had a really good fish and rice meal which the inn keeper lady cooked for me. Best fish yet and some way from the sea now. Could have been a river fish but whatever, mighty tasty. Most amazing bit though, is dinner and breakfast included per night in my comfy accommodation for under £4. Paid a fiver last night to pitch my tent but that was a good spot too. My task set today was to reach Iringa, in the southern highlands. Notably cooler here with glass in the window frames unlike everywhere else so far that had bars and mosquito screens. Just heard a mozzie so will use the net hung from the ceiling as there is no fan.
Room is small but have large bed and Swahili tv. So here I am in Iringa having covered the 130km journey at a very slow pace considering. At one stage it was a ten km uphill crawl at no more than10kph. I'd been lucky after all and managed to arrange a lift in another lorry for all but 15kms travelled today. Very pleased for that since I felt I needed the rest after my tummy troubles which appear to be alleviating with every fart. Must have the wind hopefully.
Lots of baboons near the rd, but not seen any elephants yet which is disappointing. Probably passed several without a glimpse during the last two days. Boabab trees here galore and some have flowers and fruit. Grabbed what I thought to have been fruit, but it turned out to be the round green flower bud. The fruit is same colour I thing but oblong and so far out of reach. Magnificent trees but people here use them as bill boards. One had a rude message about what some fella was doing to sheep. Approaching Iringa I noticed that there seemed to be less litter lining the road. Either the message is getting through to stop littering, or they do a cleanup round here unlike the journey so far. I seemed to be getting used to the litter strewn roads somehow perhaps looking beyond to the rivers, lakes and mountains. This evening I have noticed the second tv program clearly about trying to educate folks and discourage the use of plastic bags. It is those and plastic bottles that seem to be the major culprits. Seems drivers and passengers alike, must fling all they can from their windows. In the reserve, I noticed piles of plastic bottle waste gathered so some effort in cleaning up slowly takes place.
Iringa is off the main road, 2kms up a steep hill. Seems it may have been a strategic easily defendable position in the past, with good views of the river valley below.
Got here quite late at about 6pm so have yet to explore. Will do in a jiff and try to find a WiFi spot to download the waffle.
No luck, the hotel i was directed to trumped on the cold drink, but WiFi not working. The night walk was a bit challenging through sparse street lighting , broken roads and pavements. Typically i was only muzungu and walking too, very unusual and strange attracting attention, but folks always friendly and willing to help with directions for example. There is a pub round the corner and i downed a quick Safari before retiring to bed.
Had a really good sleep and tummy seems settled. Staying at the Karibu C J Lodge. Its 0730 and floors are being scrubbed. Breakfast to follow and then another wander round maybe with the bike to cover more ground. Perhaps there is a library.
Kifungua Kinwa (breakfast) plain omlette and fresh white bread roll and flask of tea. Can of instant coffee resulted from enquiring if flask was coffee or tea? Then luke warm jug of water appeared for a warm cup of coffee which I heated gradually from the tea. Thus was drinking Toffee !
There is a great avo tree outside my room. First one I've seen and its drooping with fruit. Not sure how long a wait is needed for those that have fallen, to eat? Maybe take one with me if there is space.
Staying for second night here and will head on tomorrow early hopefully.
S.
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