Friday 17 October 2014

The lady servers at the canteens are rather inclined to give you a dollop of everything on offer. Handing me a partitioned plate full, I reminded her of not wanting the meat. So she lifted the few pieces out of the plate with tongs, then frowned at the needing to scoop its gravy with a spoon and instead handing me the plate which now had a good portion of meat strew sauce. Have to say it was jolly tasty!
Later on I spotted while having stopped for a rest, a dust rd running the same way so on I hopped while thinking how nice it would be to have this smooth sand track winding through the trees instead of the noisy, heat filled atmosphere which of the main rd.
Eventually arrived at a small village and sat for a rest on the chair they produced for this weary traveller.
First thing that happened is you are suddenly surrounded by near enough all the village residents especially children. Gawping at this white stranger, even more so with his choice of transport. Just hugely curious but in a most respectful, cheerful and friendly manner. The Masai can be aloof, as they go about in a determined manner sporting colourful traditional dress. But interrupt them from their proud trance and you will find they are most friendly.
It was a Masai gentleman with a son who later escorted me away from the road and at least half a mile into the bush. Mostly shrubs, small thorn trees and occasional baobab, we walked to meet the homestead consisting of two wives, seven children with a first born well on the way from his younger, second or junior wife.
My Pitch with matress for Daniel and his brother, my protectors.

Samuel the youngest of their sons age 2.

The family herd.  Never fresher milk!

They offered me their own bedroom in one of three small houses, but I insisted on pitching my tent some yards from one of the houses. I think that these were modernising Masai, as two of the houses were permanent structures and they had a double bed and suitcases, such items not suitable for roaming with their cattle to new pastures. Think they are hunter gatherers but still wielding cell phones along with their cloak and sticks.
One of the sons, Daniel, spoke a tiny bit of English and attended school. I must have used the word YOU several times pointing at him. Soon he would say You go somewhere for example, meaning that he was going somewhere. Then he would say "I" meaning me and not he in another sentance. Once I clicked this funny but confusing mix up, i left him to it . So long as both he and I new what was being meant that was fine and simpler that trying to explain. Someone else can try later perhaps after a no doubt confusing session.
That night he and a brother slept on a mattress outside my tent, suggestive of security measures. Most likely not needed, but a nice gesture.
Got the tent up at twilight then wondered across to the kraal while they milked the cows for the evening supply of the most wonderful milk and meal of rice, vegetables. I contributed some bananas, an avo and some dates.
Warmed fresh milk and dates make a fine dessert.
Very tired, a solid sleep followed onto the a due filled bright morning.
Breakfast, some more of lovely milk with tea sugar and doe cakes. Exchanging contact numbers and a final of 3 calls and a letter drafted to the local pastor who spoke English and assured me I was in good hands. Running low on shillings, i gave the husband 4000 and he promptly handed 1000 of it to Samuel the two year old whose face lit up with all that he could get for his spend, and the rest to his senior wife.
Daniel escorted me back to the road past another similar, but more traditional looking homestead.
So far I have seen several wild animals. First day out, came across a buffalo, two elephants and a giraffe. Alas, only spectacular metal work, being life size.
Some grass hoppers, many birds and a troop of baboons, all of which real. The word I'm getting from folks is that there is apparently a 30 km stretch of road through the reserve on my route to Iringa, which could be dangerous with some animals notably Elephant, Giraffe , lions, and surely leopards and buffalo too.
Motorcycles can travel but not sure about a bike, maybe a lift will be needed. Since arriving here I have had a couple of meals with a joung doctor here and earlier he had heard from a welder who welded my wobbly water bottle onto my bike frame, that two motorcycles had been travelling through this area when the second of the two was attacked and killed by a lion whilst riding along. Leapt out of the bush onto him so says the Bush Telegraph.
Maybe I can creep by unnoticed with my relatively quiet transport.
(Pan right) Zoomed so you can see how much my fine would be if I ran over and Elephant!
For the final 10kms or so I hitched a lift on a lorry which I beleive was carrying cooking oil to the Congo of all things.  African here seem very keen on deep frying their food.  The driver and I had a good meal (tab mine by way of thankyou) at the canteen which he often vistits.  The fish I had was excellent.  The best so far and it was I was told, Satu, a kind of cat fish from lake Victoria.  It was a generous fillet which had been stewed, unlike the typical fried fish so often served.

First of a good few lorries who lifted me over the last 10km of the Mikuni Reserve.  I had not seen any animals other than hearing a scampering antelope until from high up in the lorry, there were some Zebra and various buck along with a buck road kill and some vultures circling away to the right.  Had excellent Satu at this canteen.

Satu rice and veg. with Ginger Beer.  Really good.


Facilius the GP has been most kind and typical of the friendly folk I have been meeting. He showed me his weekly digs today where he shares premises with his sister in law and her children. He has his own children attending various schools as boarders I gather and a wife who works and waits for his weekly return home after his work in both the state and private health providers. Next year Facilius expects to buy a Toyota car but has also assured me that he will ride his cycle too. A mountain bike I  understand which was left at home some 60kms away. He borrowed a small bike from his employee so we could ride to the canteen for lunch earlier, he who works serving in a small convenience store which is Facilius's side line.
General Practitioner Facilias and I having lunch while the welder sorted my bottle holder for 50P.

2 nights here in Norogorro


My plan is to get away early in the morning, ideally before 6 so that I can make good  progress before the inevitable heat.
Well rested I'll be after 3 nights and  two days in this busy town nestled against some impressive mountains. Seems you can get anything here from modern electronics and tv's to tailor made clothing if you choose. I was tempted to have a shirt made. Maybe further on down the road.
Riding the loaded bike through these hills is a struggle especially in the unrelenting sun and reflected road heat. I am no anorak with this so have and will adopt carry me tactics on occasions. So the last 35kms to morogoro were spent in the back of a mini pickup. Rather uncomfortable but preferable to a night ride or another day's target. Pickup driver also happy for the fuel contribution.

Got myself booked into a reasonably rated hotel 15000 shillings or about £6. Went searching for an atm which was empty, but an Indian owner if the petrol station nearby changed 20 US dollars for nearly equivalent shillings and a Pepsi.  The following day I was able to find a better place, the Ukulima nearer to town and better value, where I spent a further two nights.
At least i was then able to pay for my room and a beer in a nearby pub. Castle Stout, full of the iron I need. The nice burly bar lady even gave me a lesson in Swahili and had me repeating all sorts of strange sounds. What with learning Hungarian, my old brain is too full of new stuff which does'nt hang around for more than 5 minutes usually these days anyway.

 Also met another Daniel who indulged in a ritual annual puff of Norogorro's finest with me. That along with some sweet red and watered down fortified wine ,  good fruit and simple value wholesome food, Morogoro is a nice place to be. The cold showers are to look forward to as well.  No point in hot water as its too hot and one needs to cool off mostly.
All for now, join me if you can!
S.

1 comment:

  1. Sounds like you are having a great time Simon! Love reading your stories - how about some pics?
    Olympia

    ReplyDelete