Magnificent Malawi
Yesterday was pure bliss. I have swam, drank, and canoed lake Nyasa.
Today will be my third in Malawi but having arrived in late afternoon on the 25th, it was my first full day yesterday.
Now waiting for sunrise over the lake. Its 0515 and my farmer host has just loped off to dig up some sweet potatoes for breakfast, and I have just rolled out of my tent  for only  the third time in two weeks.  Pitched about 200m from the lake side, its waves sound just like a sea shore. If you didn't know this was fresh water, you might get very thirsty round here as the sand is just like the best beach sand you'll find anywhere. This is a paradise, no question. There are crops growing behind,  farm animals around, and a beautiful fresh water lake full of fine fish ahead. Now going for an early morning swim.
Swimming in the lake is just superb. Take the salt from the sea, add sunshine and an endless sandy beach, and there you have it. Lovely Lake Nyasa.
I set at about 0900 after breakfast of toast, a fried egg and some white bare and black tea. I was offered a Sachet of LL milk, but felt ill inclined to indulge selfishly when there were six children to feed. The village Headman and his wife have been most welcoming, but I didn't want to stretch things. The fish were freshly caught overnight and I had bought a small bucket full of 2 inch long White Bait.
Well fed, I got going at around 9 after  family photo session and an exchange of addresses.
A tough ride from the start, a warm head wind had me struggling to make good headway even on the flat terrain parallel to the lake shore  which varied from around 500m to a km away. I stopped a good few times for a cold drink, each one disappearing at a rate of knots and as usual feeling somewhat self conscious while the onlookers stared enviously at what for them may have been pure luxury.
Later, I pulled off the road early in the afternoon and headed lakeside.  Plunging into the lake once again, my only audience, a mother and child, two cows, some cormorants and a piglet.
Short of power to recharge phone, so will summarize and maybe add later.
Got going again a couple of hours later, cooler but darkness caught up and the last 20km ridden with just tail light. Two joung lads told me if the Hollander location which turned out to be a well sorted campsite. Having arrived exhausted, I had downed a Fanta provided by Flo, the wife of Jan who run the FloJa Foundation which has grown from a patch of land over 6 years into a mini paradise for the 80 odd children who attend the preschool. Run as a charity, all money received from the campsite and two bungalows goes into teaching and feeding the daily attending kids who are selected as economically vulnerable and some disabled children.
Had such a good nights sleep on the double hummock under a canopy of trees with the starry sky backdrop only 20 yards from the lapping lake edge, that I chose to sleep in the same spot for three nights.
Been having issues with bunged up tummy for at least 4 to 5 days, but pleased to report some movement (thank heavens) yesterday following some laxatives offered by the staff of the Mushroom Farm where I have stayed for two nights also out in the open, overlooking a steep escarpment around 750m up from the lake shore.
I can see the lake stretching forever way down below from my open air open den on the edge of a steep cliffs edge.
Some welcome clouds keeping things cool after the 5am sun up. The Mushroom Farm is an eco camp with cliff edge cabins and tents all enjoying the dramatic view.
At FloJa I hooked up with Garry from England, who has ridden his bicycle all the way, barring a West/East flight to get around closed borders by Ebola. Has made my journey rather insignificant but we are on the same course to Jhb from here, but he plans to reach Capetown!
Gary has a much better grip on the techno stuff, and has a much more organised website diary of his journey including I understand a way for viewers to send him some beer money if they choose via paypal. Cheeky git, so if any contributions result from this note, the make sure you add explain where you found his website below and ask that he offer me a pint as well. Thank you.
www.longbikeride.co.uk
Missing the lake swimming, but yesterday we walked to the falls for a swim and then on to Livingstonia for lunch. Last night the staff cooked an excellent meal laying on some wine and other drinks on the house as a Halloween celebration.
Its about £2.50 per night upwards to stay in this stunning spot.
Bye for now,
S.

This morning after an embellished breakfast which would otherwise have been a copy of yesterday so added tomato to the plain omlette from the market and some remaining paw paw from the night before made for a tastier version. The tomatoes here taste as they should, unlike the ASDA ones back home.
So got going at around 8  and headed for the little bakery shop to thank a young Muslim lady who kindly walked at least half a mile with me in search of suitable accommodation. Then arranged to record the landladies cell number and rang me later to see that I was comfy. with a quick detour to the crafts place for a email check. Overwhelming kindness and concern, she was like a mother hen to me. Most folks are only too pleased to make you feel welcome here.
A quick detour down to the arts and crafts spot for a disappointing email check. Come on folks, drop me a line. You know I'll always reply. Been hunting about for WiFi this evening to no avail so replying may take a while.
Iringa is high on a hill so descending would be great fun but for the blasted speed bumps. Cycles should not need to be subject to such measures but unfortunately the ripples and bumps on the Tanzanian roads do not consider cyclists.
So who goes "now u Si mi, now u don't" ? That would be a black man crossing a zebra crossing. But earlier today, we had " black, black,white, black,black" Best way I can describe the Tanzanian peloton experienced earlier. I managed to tuck in with fellow cyclists today who seemed very pleased to be riding along with this msungu.  Leading the pack was a young fella with a load of maize. Others apart from me were free from loads but taking advantage of slip streaming me and maize man ahead. He was super fit and although in his shelter from the cross wind, tough to keep up with. No gears on their bike either makes them all the more impressive.
Tough day with horrendous hills but vista views. Covered around 50 miles which was good  for the terrain.
I was told of a camping farm along the way which was supposed to be 100m off the main rd, but was over a mile up a steep hill.  The camp was surrounded by the first security fence I've seen, apparently installed after an armed robbery incident. I signed in and had a look around but decided to move on with plenty of time to reach the next town Mafinga where I am now.
It had been a gruelling day, not too hot but the sun , wind and hills made for a tiring estimated 80km traveled.
As usual, I tend to recce around to find a room or camp site. Rooms here abound and I have found one which is massive, big enough to ride my bike in a tight circle, double bed, net not needed, and on suite bathroom. The taps don't work, but I have two large buckets of water a loo, basin, and mirror. A bargain at 5000 shillings or under £2. Another guest here who is a teacher trainee travelling from Nyasa, the east side of lake Malawi to Dar by coach, a two day trip for him, speaks some English and he and I had dinner last night. Deep fried pork, like meaty scratchings, some veg and typical Ugali (maize porridge) which is very filling and I returned a third of the portion served as usual.
Quite chilly here in the evenings and people here wear coats or jumpers. Still glowing from the cycling earlier, I managed to stay in short sleeves and t-shirt. After the meal I hunted about for WiFi but not found. Ended up in quite pub/night club for a bottle of Safari.
Sat next to a chap who spoke who turned out to be another GP, who gave me some muscle relaxant analgesic made here in Tanzania. Well travelled, he told me about his times in Jamaica and Brazil. A Reggae fan too so all round a really nice bloke.  Gave me a lift back to the Guest House in his little Toyota Yaris, called differently here.
Have had a good sleep, its 0620 and some loud music is playing. No food here so may seek something small before heading on after gathering my stuff at present, spread about the place.
Just been a knock on my door, its Bonus who I eat with last night. He has given me his email and helped to deliver a bucket of hot water for the morning wash.
The Raleigh bike has stood up ok so far, I stopped at a cycle workshop and had my chain oiled yesterday and my front tyre still has a very slow puncture, but will leave it for the time being. The Sturmey Archer gears being only 3, are somewhat limited and I could do with a lower gear for climbs. Now and again my pedals slip in 2nd. Maybe the hub needs oil. If anyone is reading this, please google "what oil, Sturmey Archer hub?" and preferably sms me on 0044 7877 578615 or email answer. Most grateful hopeful.
Gotta go now.
S.  23/10/14 0700
Hi again, its 1920hrs 23rd
Been an extraordinary day. Set out after a cup of tea  typically sweetened from a flask, and a quick browse through some emails from home and SA.
Met with a significant climb from the town and some exhilarating speedy down hill zooms where I felt most comfortable in the lane centre  as the road surface and the wind made being in the middle the right place to be on one hand, but on the other, ever concerned about which truck or bus may be lurking and approaching often at a great pace.
Soon the hard shoulder disappeared and things began to get narrow. Courage remains as long as I can hear the traffic from behind, quite possible until traffic approaches from ahead. Then it's laps  of the Gods stuff.
The crescendo has me wobbling as close to the edge of the tarmac as I can be. Warning hoots prevail which happily I have become somewhat immune to. A certain determination and concentration is essential to avoid a wobble, then whoosh, they all go by with a rush of wind and a whine.
On one such occasion, I noticed that a lorry from behind had slowed  to wait for a safe opportunity to go by, and as it did so, I waved in thanks with thumbs up. The lorry trundled slowly by and pulled up just ahead. A fellow driver emerged and greeted me, and clambered down from his high cab. A monster Mercedes carrying electricity plant. After exchanging greetings again and my thanks for his caution, he remarked about my good choice of bright yellow clothing and begged me to be most cautious as not all drivers were.
Well, what the hell. Before long my sturdy steed was strapped to the back of his container, and yours truly was enjoying a great view from a very tall cab.
Long and tall of it is here I am after being carried some 200kms in  Uyole  Mbeya only 100kms from the northern border with Malawi.
Staying at the Single Nice Inn. Again in the back streets which is my advice for those who seek good places beyond the visible which seem often overrated.
Shower even works and there's hot water which is welcome in the higher altitudes. I've heard that its mostly down hill to lake Nyasa and Malawi so most likely I will follow its shore for some time.
Bought lunch for Kasimu at Twiga Cafe in Igowa  on the rhs facing west. Fish steak the best yet, Satu from lake Victoria, heavenly.
We exchanged a great deal of conversation and I think I learned a little more Swahili though not conscious of it as usual. He had me chatting on his phone to various folks back in Dar and those he or we met along the way.
The countryside along the way varied dramatically from dry savannah to marshy wetlands. Rivers both dry and flowing. Here as in many previous parts visited a ring of mountains are visible to the south and west. South is my heading tomorrow.
Agriculture here abounds but not intensive, most of those I saw were tilling by hand.  Its planting time here though bananas, avo, oranges, nuts, potatoes, cabbages, onions, greens, peaches and tomatoes are all available at the local market. Many fruit trees can be seen along the roads and earlier in my journey there were many large areas dedicated to cactus.
Best bird yet was I think a Golden Eagle and I wish the camera was ready as it flew by quite closely.
Otherwise seems that wild animals are well camo'd or stay well clear from the road. Goats galore and often tied as well as some cows to  thorny grazing patches.
Everyone here has something to offer with stores and markets abundant. Several folks have mentioned corruption in govt. and today we were stopped by the police road check and a uniformed lady asked Kassimu for money and I'm glad to say that he told her he'd no money to give. Thus not encouraging bribes inevitably making the roads a more dangerous place. After all, the object is to check vehicle condition and insurance but it seems that a bribe will allow an unroadworthy vehicle to pass by.
Kuaga for now.

Early evening here and its been a restful, rewarding day. I visited the local hospital and met a young lady again (last time in Dar Airport while we chatted the early hours waiting for sun up) from Shrewsbury. She is hoping to be a doctor and has volunteered here for a month.
She seemed happy some 10 days later and is at present helping in the maternity ward. Says that the staff are on the whole good and make do the best they can. However one lady in labour had been screaming but no one came to her aid which was disturbing. Apparently still born  , so mystery as to what the cause was i.e. neglect, or maybe they new the baby had died before birth and had other priorities. Dramatic.
I am at Neema cafe above the craft store downstairs. It is well known for its art which is made by disabled people and the staff here are deaf and occasionally quite noisy when joking. Started by an Anglican pastor some years ago, it seems well known and thrives as a non profit entity.
Also managed to get some water purifying solution, some panadol and tablets in case of a runny tummy which I am glad not to report. All above as insurance for the road ahead and at below a pound for all 3, a steal and congratulations to myself for not stocking up back home at greatly inflated rip off Britain prices.
Also bought a paw paw , two oranges and some tomatoes for about the same price.
So paw paw for pudding tonight as its way to heavy to carry. Hope I can share it around.
Looking at the map, the next town of size seems to be about 90km away, an easy run if I get an early start.
Seems I was right about the war ry position of thus place says wiki, late 1800s found the Germans creating a fort to defend against a native tribe which subsequently made it theirs.
Until next time. From Iringa.
Simon.

Uphill to Iringa

Its 0245hrs and I'm laying on a sofa in an open to the elements living area of the Crocodile Camp alongside the Ruaha River 12 kms from the Ruaha Mbuyuni,  the latter of those two the name for a Boabab tree. Busy chatting with Gutram and have been doing so for what seems several hours. It is now 0435hrs.
Got to sleep earlier in the tent but have woken with stomach cramp which has been severe. Could be a malaria symptom, or something I have drunk or eaten. Anyhow the pain has forced me up and I wondered into the living area and woke Gutram and his brother who produced a paracetomol which I have gratefully taken along with an ibuprofen I have. To avoid Malaria hopefully, i am taking Doxycycline which I gather is 90 % effective but reduced on Alcohol intake and I have enjoyed the occasional bottle of very good Safari beer. There are reported stomach cramps from this medication too so all a bit uncertain at the moment. Lay chatting last night until 0500hrs and took another paracetomol then. Ongoing cramp, but mild at present 0830hrs and I have been given a couple more tabs for the rd. 
May hang about for a little breakfast and number two's to see what happens. I'm about 12km from Umbuyuni with over a hundred to Iringa. Now sitting on a bungalow porch overlooking the wide, quite fast flowing river which contains many crocs I'm told. Here we are on the steeper concave bank, and no crocs visible. Elephants also roam this territory, but this morning I have seen only monkeys. One of which is cautiously approaching and scampered by. There are many and seem to be getting up to typical, quite naughty, monkey business.  No qualms about nicking stuff.
Yesterday was a slog of a cycle through the hills and happily passed the mountains. The rd follows the river coarse and a lot of the time was spent in or around the river valley. Drinking water is always a priority for me, so whenever there is a refill opportunity, I'm at it in a flash and at the same time joyfully binge on the precious stuff I had earlier been sipping cautiously.
Yesterday I passed a travel in and bought a warm Fanta Orange. Their generator, normally operating the fridge had busted because they had ignorantly run it without oil. I asked how their water was and Christina the manager showed me round the back and a little up the hill to a plastic pipe protruding from the ground. This pipe must divert spring water and although a little coloured from the rain, is surely good to drink. I cannot rely on bottled water for not being able to carry enough and I'd have spent a small fortune by now. Its just not always available and about 50p a litre. Best water has been from the manually pumped ground wells which have seen a massive installation program during this last year I read. Great work, a real bonus for the rural folk. I'm on the look out for a similar hand pump to use with the river water back at the farm in Magalies. I want to install a  shower so need to pump water into an tank say 6 to 7 feet high with a simple flap and hole arrangement. Any suggestions welcome.
This morning it is a cloudy sky with a handy westerly breeze so hopefully get going again soon if my tummy settles.
Would like to make Iringa by this evening so will probably try to hitch a lift from another lorry if possible. Not all can carry a bike and often they have passengers already. Need to be lucky.
Got away from the Crocodile camp after 10am once the proprietor had cautioned me again about all the highway robbers I was likely to meet. If so, these robbers must be a very friendly peaceful lot. Kept thinking that she was emphasising how safe her premises were compared to the world outside. Got my first puncture yesterday and finally fixed same by the third time.
Ended up discarding a round patch which kept lifting. Square one seems to have done the trick.
Now typing this at 1950hrs having just had a really good fish and rice meal which the inn keeper lady cooked for me.  Best fish yet and some way from the sea now. Could have been a river fish but whatever, mighty tasty. Most amazing bit though, is dinner and breakfast included per night in my comfy accommodation for under £4. Paid a fiver last night to pitch my tent but that was a good spot too. My task set today was to reach Iringa, in the southern highlands. Notably cooler here with glass in the window frames unlike everywhere else so far that had bars and mosquito screens. Just heard a mozzie so will use the net hung from the ceiling as there is no fan.
Room is small but have large bed and Swahili tv.  So here I am in Iringa having covered the 130km journey at a very slow pace considering. At one stage it was a ten km uphill crawl at no more than10kph.  I'd been lucky after all and managed to arrange a lift in another lorry for all but 15kms travelled today. Very pleased for that since I felt I needed the rest after my tummy troubles which appear to be alleviating with every fart. Must have the wind hopefully.
Lots of baboons near the rd, but not seen any elephants yet which is disappointing. Probably passed several without a glimpse during the last two days. Boabab trees here galore and some have flowers and fruit. Grabbed what I thought to have been fruit, but it turned out to be the round green flower bud. The fruit is same colour I thing but oblong and so far out of reach. Magnificent trees but people here use them as bill boards. One had a rude message about what some fella was doing to sheep. Approaching Iringa I noticed that there seemed to be less litter lining the road. Either the message is getting through to stop littering, or they do a cleanup round here unlike  the journey so far. I seemed to be getting used to the litter strewn roads somehow perhaps looking beyond to the rivers, lakes and mountains. This evening I have noticed the second tv program clearly about trying to educate folks and discourage the use of plastic bags. It is those and plastic bottles that seem to be the major culprits. Seems drivers and passengers alike, must fling all they can from their windows. In the reserve, I noticed piles of plastic bottle waste gathered so some effort in cleaning up slowly takes place.
Iringa is off the main road, 2kms up a steep hill. Seems it may have been a strategic easily defendable position in the past, with good views of the river valley below.
Got here quite late at about 6pm so have yet to explore. Will do in a jiff and try to find a WiFi spot to download the waffle.
No luck, the hotel i was directed to trumped on the cold drink, but WiFi not working. The night walk was a bit challenging through  sparse street lighting , broken roads and pavements. Typically i was only muzungu and walking too, very unusual and strange attracting attention, but folks always friendly and willing to help with directions for example. There is a pub round the corner and i downed a quick Safari before retiring to bed.
 Had a really good sleep and tummy seems settled. Staying at the Karibu C J Lodge. Its 0730 and floors are being scrubbed. Breakfast to follow and then another wander round maybe with the bike to cover more ground. Perhaps there is a library.
Kifungua Kinwa (breakfast) plain omlette and fresh white bread roll and flask of tea. Can of instant coffee resulted from enquiring if flask was coffee or tea? Then luke warm jug of water appeared for a warm cup of coffee which I heated gradually from the tea. Thus was drinking Toffee !
There is a great avo tree outside my room. First one I've seen and its drooping with fruit. Not sure how long a wait is needed for those that have fallen, to eat? Maybe take one with me if there is space.
Staying for second night here and will head on tomorrow early hopefully.
S.

The lady servers at the canteens are rather inclined to give you a dollop of everything on offer. Handing me a partitioned plate full, I reminded her of not wanting the meat. So she lifted the few pieces out of the plate with tongs, then frowned at the needing to scoop its gravy with a spoon and instead handing me the plate which now had a good portion of meat strew sauce. Have to say it was jolly tasty!
Later on I spotted while having stopped for a rest, a dust rd running the same way so on I hopped while thinking how nice it would be to have this smooth sand track winding through the trees instead of the noisy, heat filled atmosphere which of the main rd.
Eventually arrived at a small village and sat for a rest on the chair they produced for this weary traveller.
First thing that happened is you are suddenly surrounded by near enough all the village residents especially children. Gawping at this white stranger, even more so with his choice of transport. Just hugely curious but in a most respectful, cheerful and friendly manner. The Masai can be aloof, as they go about in a determined manner sporting colourful traditional dress. But interrupt them from their proud trance and you will find they are most friendly.
It was a Masai gentleman with a son who later escorted me away from the road and at least half a mile into the bush. Mostly shrubs, small thorn trees and occasional baobab, we walked to meet the homestead consisting of two wives, seven children with a first born well on the way from his younger, second or junior wife.

My Pitch with matress for Daniel and his brother, my protectors.

Samuel the youngest of their sons age 2.

The family herd.  Never fresher milk!

They offered me their own bedroom in one of three small houses, but I insisted on pitching my tent some yards from one of the houses. I think that these were modernising Masai, as two of the houses were permanent structures and they had a double bed and suitcases, such items not suitable for roaming with their cattle to new pastures. Think they are hunter gatherers but still wielding cell phones along with their cloak and sticks.
One of the sons, Daniel, spoke a tiny bit of English and attended school. I must have used the word YOU several times pointing at him. Soon he would say You go somewhere for example, meaning that he was going somewhere. Then he would say "I" meaning me and not he in another sentance. Once I clicked this funny but confusing mix up, i left him to it . So long as both he and I new what was being meant that was fine and simpler that trying to explain. Someone else can try later perhaps after a no doubt confusing session.
That night he and a brother slept on a mattress outside my tent, suggestive of security measures. Most likely not needed, but a nice gesture.
Got the tent up at twilight then wondered across to the kraal while they milked the cows for the evening supply of the most wonderful milk and meal of rice, vegetables. I contributed some bananas, an avo and some dates.
Warmed fresh milk and dates make a fine dessert.
Very tired, a solid sleep followed onto the a due filled bright morning.
Breakfast, some more of lovely milk with tea sugar and doe cakes. Exchanging contact numbers and a final of 3 calls and a letter drafted to the local pastor who spoke English and assured me I was in good hands. Running low on shillings, i gave the husband 4000 and he promptly handed 1000 of it to Samuel the two year old whose face lit up with all that he could get for his spend, and the rest to his senior wife.
Daniel escorted me back to the road past another similar, but more traditional looking homestead.
So far I have seen several wild animals. First day out, came across a buffalo, two elephants and a giraffe. Alas, only spectacular metal work, being life size.
Some grass hoppers, many birds and a troop of baboons, all of which real. The word I'm getting from folks is that there is apparently a 30 km stretch of road through the reserve on my route to Iringa, which could be dangerous with some animals notably Elephant, Giraffe , lions, and surely leopards and buffalo too.
Motorcycles can travel but not sure about a bike, maybe a lift will be needed. Since arriving here I have had a couple of meals with a joung doctor here and earlier he had heard from a welder who welded my wobbly water bottle onto my bike frame, that two motorcycles had been travelling through this area when the second of the two was attacked and killed by a lion whilst riding along. Leapt out of the bush onto him so says the Bush Telegraph.
Maybe I can creep by unnoticed with my relatively quiet transport.

(Pan right) Zoomed so you can see how much my fine would be if I ran over and Elephant!

For the final 10kms or so I hitched a lift on a lorry which I beleive was carrying cooking oil to the Congo of all things.  African here seem very keen on deep frying their food.  The driver and I had a good meal (tab mine by way of thankyou) at the canteen which he often vistits.  The fish I had was excellent.  The best so far and it was I was told, Satu, a kind of cat fish from lake Victoria.  It was a generous fillet which had been stewed, unlike the typical fried fish so often served.

First of a good few lorries who lifted me over the last 10km of the Mikuni Reserve.  I had not seen any animals other than hearing a scampering antelope until from high up in the lorry, there were some Zebra and various buck along with a buck road kill and some vultures circling away to the right.  Had excellent Satu at this canteen.

Satu rice and veg. with Ginger Beer.  Really good.

Facilius the GP has been most kind and typical of the friendly folk I have been meeting. He showed me his weekly digs today where he shares premises with his sister in law and her children. He has his own children attending various schools as boarders I gather and a wife who works and waits for his weekly return home after his work in both the state and private health providers. Next year Facilius expects to buy a Toyota car but has also assured me that he will ride his cycle too. A mountain bike I  understand which was left at home some 60kms away. He borrowed a small bike from his employee so we could ride to the canteen for lunch earlier, he who works serving in a small convenience store which is Facilius's side line.

General Practitioner Facilias and I having lunch while the welder sorted my bottle holder for 50P.

2 nights here in Norogorro

My plan is to get away early in the morning, ideally before 6 so that I can make good  progress before the inevitable heat.
Well rested I'll be after 3 nights and  two days in this busy town nestled against some impressive mountains. Seems you can get anything here from modern electronics and tv's to tailor made clothing if you choose. I was tempted to have a shirt made. Maybe further on down the road.
Riding the loaded bike through these hills is a struggle especially in the unrelenting sun and reflected road heat. I am no anorak with this so have and will adopt carry me tactics on occasions. So the last 35kms to morogoro were spent in the back of a mini pickup. Rather uncomfortable but preferable to a night ride or another day's target. Pickup driver also happy for the fuel contribution.

Got myself booked into a reasonably rated hotel 15000 shillings or about £6. Went searching for an atm which was empty, but an Indian owner if the petrol station nearby changed 20 US dollars for nearly equivalent shillings and a Pepsi.  The following day I was able to find a better place, the Ukulima nearer to town and better value, where I spent a further two nights.
At least i was then able to pay for my room and a beer in a nearby pub. Castle Stout, full of the iron I need. The nice burly bar lady even gave me a lesson in Swahili and had me repeating all sorts of strange sounds. What with learning Hungarian, my old brain is too full of new stuff which does'nt hang around for more than 5 minutes usually these days anyway.

 Also met another Daniel who indulged in a ritual annual puff of Norogorro's finest with me. That along with some sweet red and watered down fortified wine ,  good fruit and simple value wholesome food, Morogoro is a nice place to be. The cold showers are to look forward to as well.  No point in hot water as its too hot and one needs to cool off mostly.
All for now, join me if you can!
S.

From top: Beach in front of hut where I stayed across the river at Dar.

                 Beach hut Dar.

                 Arriving Zanzibar.



Mind blowing couple a days.
Getting out of Dar was a snip. Seems maybe just one rd heading west. The overnight ferry from Zanzi was a challenge. Although cheaper at 20US instead 35 on the speedy cat, also avoiding the added 6 dollars for the bike, and providing a place to be overnight, it wasn't a pleasant place to be. The steward dressed in navy whites directed me to the VIP suite but all the comfy chairs had been sat on so had to make do. The voyage lasts around 3 hours an then the boat hangs about mid stream tied I think to some bouy arrangement. So having left at 9pm, it then waits offshore where at first it seemed a gentle rock, later turned into more like a fast trot where the rear section of the hull felt like it was slamming onto the seabed. So that's why the steward had been handing out sick bags earlier, but as you know,being a seasoned sailor, I refused. But I was fine though others may well have used them in the darkened VIP but far from really , suite. During the night I had a go at wondering about, as you do. A ship full of sleeping folks makes for an awkward stroll. Stepping over bodies carefully avoiding squashing same, I managed to get out of the cabin onto the aft deck but no way forward as I was keen to see how we were holding steady. I could look over the stern and noticed both props turning slowly. Sure we were held by the boat's anchor as earlier when loading my bike on the bow along with piles of others, the chain looked as though not used. If it were, then very likely the anchor gear would foul up against bike frames or more likely mangle its way through many, mine included.
All sorts of stuff was loaded, and when I googled Zanzibar during the night, wiki mentions a ferry disaster, Tanzania's worst ever due to overloading!
There were some birdies cheeping away and I peered up to see where they appeared to be nesting, then i saw that there were several cages of day old chicks cheeping away. What with fridges galore along with boxes of lord only knows, this boat was packed. No announcement concerning emergency procedures or any such signs could be seen, oh well it looked solidly built at least. And with the name Flying Bird, what could go wrong. Well, six o'clock finally arrived after what felt like ages with little sleep. One lady on the shelf behind, twice had a serious case of the burps, I've never even heard burly blokes make such a din with visions of vomit oozing down my shoulders the VIP lounge that earlier had two women fighting, one of which was very loud while I was trying  peacefully to peel my mango, to be.
Now getting off was altogether harder, someone had left a coffin on the gangway and stepping onto it whilst a hord of so called porters who clearly resent anyone carrying any of their own stuff, almost had me stirring the corpse with my size 11 boot shod feet against a puny and very bendy budget body box. Shouting only seems to urge these gorillas on and I had no choice but to breathe out to be thin while they thundered by, all one hundred of them as they scrambled, competing with each other to get hold of the biggest or priciest luggage.
Then out to face the crowd of taxi touts, absolute mayham. Really is survival of the fittest.b Darwin impressing stuff.
When the third taxi tried to grab me, though what they thought I'd do with my Raleigh, who knows. I shouted " I can't see!" a look of concern appeared on this fellas face which impressed me know end especially as I really could not see for the sleep gunge had created a very efficient mask over both my eyes.  I needed water and asked this chap where the nearest source was. Often scarce and especially so free with the competing bottled industry. I still haven't come round to the idea of buying water and washing my eyes with bought water , well you can see my problem.  Somehow this chap realised my way and directed me diagonally across the road to a very peaceful church garden with a TAP!
Thanking the Lord and saying a prayer, I washed and filled my bottles. Along came another chap who was also praying, another Simon which seemed most significant to him. We parted with smiles and I received some directions for the road out of the city.
A dusty stream of chaos and occasional belching diesel forced me to hang on to my breath now and then. Gradual climb out of the city with all road users competing for space. Lorries and coaches command most respect and have the loudest hooters. Soon their horns merge into the hum drum of the road and I have mixed feelings. On one hand the road width or lack of it at times makes the hooting feel aggressive and unnecessary as one hears at least the first one coming so no need for a warning signal if that is the drivers intent. Still, the use of hooters here, although common, is thankfully less than in India for example. On the other hand, the sudden rush of wind as they pass and especially if they do so closely, produces a helping surge or push and a pleasant although short lived cooling breeze. Often they seem to come in droves or convoys. One can only guess that others are following as their sound is merged with the leading vehicle and they all just go by in a thundering crescendo. I kept thinking that this was not for feint hearted folks, maybe just stupid ones.
The first few kms out of Dar are fine as there are two middle lanes mostly used by motorcycles and bikes. Its beyond the suburbs where  space gets to be an issue so that several times I chose to leave the tarmac for a bumpy time.
I had the company of a fellow cyclist returning home from his night job in the city and the alone where shortly after I pulled into one of several it seems, motel type places called Serengeti this or that. Breakfasted on a chapatti with banana salt and lemon.  A concocted banana pancake since the chapatti had been destined to contain goat or other meat which did not appeal.  All washed down with a cool drink had me on my way again.
My goal was to make a good dent in the distance towards Morogorro and I knew it would take at least two days.
Even garages or fuel stations seem not to provide water these days and ever concerned about the need for it has me on the lookout like a hawk for a mouse. Getting a bit low, and coming across a newly built garage with several smart fuel tankers, caused me to pull into this impressive establishment. There was a SHOWER BLOCK!
So there I stayed fo half an hour while I deluged in desire, it was pure bliss. Water, gods gift for life is the most wonderful indulgence especially when hot dusty and thirsty. Standing first under the cold stream of refreshing joy, fully clothed and gradually undressing while my togs and I had a good clean. Amazing and free what's more. The tap would not release any water at first so I hollered out a clear plead and some magic happened via a friendly face. Offering to pay but not required endeared me further towards these friendly, respectful Tanzanian folk.
Further on I came across a small village with a canteen. Now you may know that my nose doesn't work. I can only breathe through it but derive no sense of smell nor ever remember having so. You may often track down a meal by smelling it as I have often heard folks say what's that cooking remark. For me though, I am on the lookout for big pots which hold great promise of cooked food. Ugali or pap as we know it in SA is often combined with beans, bananas, some greens and a meat stew of sorts. I have been having little meat preferring just the vegetables, fruit and occasionally fish which is a preference over meat normally. Taken to bitter lemon too where i can get it.
Writing this from morogoro and will post again before I leave for Iringa tmo.
S.