Friday 31 October 2014

Magnificent Malawi
Yesterday was pure bliss. I have swam, drank, and canoed lake Nyasa.
Today will be my third in Malawi but having arrived in late afternoon on the 25th, it was my first full day yesterday.
Now waiting for sunrise over the lake. Its 0515 and my farmer host has just loped off to dig up some sweet potatoes for breakfast, and I have just rolled out of my tent  for only  the third time in two weeks.  Pitched about 200m from the lake side, its waves sound just like a sea shore. If you didn't know this was fresh water, you might get very thirsty round here as the sand is just like the best beach sand you'll find anywhere. This is a paradise, no question. There are crops growing behind,  farm animals around, and a beautiful fresh water lake full of fine fish ahead. Now going for an early morning swim.
Swimming in the lake is just superb. Take the salt from the sea, add sunshine and an endless sandy beach, and there you have it. Lovely Lake Nyasa.
I set at about 0900 after breakfast of toast, a fried egg and some white bare and black tea. I was offered a Sachet of LL milk, but felt ill inclined to indulge selfishly when there were six children to feed. The village Headman and his wife have been most welcoming, but I didn't want to stretch things. The fish were freshly caught overnight and I had bought a small bucket full of 2 inch long White Bait.
Well fed, I got going at around 9 after  family photo session and an exchange of addresses.
A tough ride from the start, a warm head wind had me struggling to make good headway even on the flat terrain parallel to the lake shore  which varied from around 500m to a km away. I stopped a good few times for a cold drink, each one disappearing at a rate of knots and as usual feeling somewhat self conscious while the onlookers stared enviously at what for them may have been pure luxury.
Later, I pulled off the road early in the afternoon and headed lakeside.  Plunging into the lake once again, my only audience, a mother and child, two cows, some cormorants and a piglet.
Short of power to recharge phone, so will summarize and maybe add later.
Got going again a couple of hours later, cooler but darkness caught up and the last 20km ridden with just tail light. Two joung lads told me if the Hollander location which turned out to be a well sorted campsite. Having arrived exhausted, I had downed a Fanta provided by Flo, the wife of Jan who run the FloJa Foundation which has grown from a patch of land over 6 years into a mini paradise for the 80 odd children who attend the preschool. Run as a charity, all money received from the campsite and two bungalows goes into teaching and feeding the daily attending kids who are selected as economically vulnerable and some disabled children.
Had such a good nights sleep on the double hummock under a canopy of trees with the starry sky backdrop only 20 yards from the lapping lake edge, that I chose to sleep in the same spot for three nights.
Been having issues with bunged up tummy for at least 4 to 5 days, but pleased to report some movement (thank heavens) yesterday following some laxatives offered by the staff of the Mushroom Farm where I have stayed for two nights also out in the open, overlooking a steep escarpment around 750m up from the lake shore.
I can see the lake stretching forever way down below from my open air open den on the edge of a steep cliffs edge.
Some welcome clouds keeping things cool after the 5am sun up. The Mushroom Farm is an eco camp with cliff edge cabins and tents all enjoying the dramatic view.
At FloJa I hooked up with Garry from England, who has ridden his bicycle all the way, barring a West/East flight to get around closed borders by Ebola. Has made my journey rather insignificant but we are on the same course to Jhb from here, but he plans to reach Capetown!
Gary has a much better grip on the techno stuff, and has a much more organised website diary of his journey including I understand a way for viewers to send him some beer money if they choose via paypal. Cheeky git, so if any contributions result from this note, the make sure you add explain where you found his website below and ask that he offer me a pint as well. Thank you.
www.longbikeride.co.uk
Missing the lake swimming, but yesterday we walked to the falls for a swim and then on to Livingstonia for lunch. Last night the staff cooked an excellent meal laying on some wine and other drinks on the house as a Halloween celebration.
Its about £2.50 per night upwards to stay in this stunning spot.
Bye for now,
S.

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