This morning after an embellished breakfast which would otherwise have been a copy of yesterday so added tomato to the plain omlette from the market and some remaining paw paw from the night before made for a tastier version. The tomatoes here taste as they should, unlike the ASDA ones back home.
So got going at around 8  and headed for the little bakery shop to thank a young Muslim lady who kindly walked at least half a mile with me in search of suitable accommodation. Then arranged to record the landladies cell number and rang me later to see that I was comfy. with a quick detour to the crafts place for a email check. Overwhelming kindness and concern, she was like a mother hen to me. Most folks are only too pleased to make you feel welcome here.
A quick detour down to the arts and crafts spot for a disappointing email check. Come on folks, drop me a line. You know I'll always reply. Been hunting about for WiFi this evening to no avail so replying may take a while.
Iringa is high on a hill so descending would be great fun but for the blasted speed bumps. Cycles should not need to be subject to such measures but unfortunately the ripples and bumps on the Tanzanian roads do not consider cyclists.
So who goes "now u Si mi, now u don't" ? That would be a black man crossing a zebra crossing. But earlier today, we had " black, black,white, black,black" Best way I can describe the Tanzanian peloton experienced earlier. I managed to tuck in with fellow cyclists today who seemed very pleased to be riding along with this msungu.  Leading the pack was a young fella with a load of maize. Others apart from me were free from loads but taking advantage of slip streaming me and maize man ahead. He was super fit and although in his shelter from the cross wind, tough to keep up with. No gears on their bike either makes them all the more impressive.
Tough day with horrendous hills but vista views. Covered around 50 miles which was good  for the terrain.
I was told of a camping farm along the way which was supposed to be 100m off the main rd, but was over a mile up a steep hill.  The camp was surrounded by the first security fence I've seen, apparently installed after an armed robbery incident. I signed in and had a look around but decided to move on with plenty of time to reach the next town Mafinga where I am now.
It had been a gruelling day, not too hot but the sun , wind and hills made for a tiring estimated 80km traveled.
As usual, I tend to recce around to find a room or camp site. Rooms here abound and I have found one which is massive, big enough to ride my bike in a tight circle, double bed, net not needed, and on suite bathroom. The taps don't work, but I have two large buckets of water a loo, basin, and mirror. A bargain at 5000 shillings or under £2. Another guest here who is a teacher trainee travelling from Nyasa, the east side of lake Malawi to Dar by coach, a two day trip for him, speaks some English and he and I had dinner last night. Deep fried pork, like meaty scratchings, some veg and typical Ugali (maize porridge) which is very filling and I returned a third of the portion served as usual.
Quite chilly here in the evenings and people here wear coats or jumpers. Still glowing from the cycling earlier, I managed to stay in short sleeves and t-shirt. After the meal I hunted about for WiFi but not found. Ended up in quite pub/night club for a bottle of Safari.
Sat next to a chap who spoke who turned out to be another GP, who gave me some muscle relaxant analgesic made here in Tanzania. Well travelled, he told me about his times in Jamaica and Brazil. A Reggae fan too so all round a really nice bloke.  Gave me a lift back to the Guest House in his little Toyota Yaris, called differently here.
Have had a good sleep, its 0620 and some loud music is playing. No food here so may seek something small before heading on after gathering my stuff at present, spread about the place.
Just been a knock on my door, its Bonus who I eat with last night. He has given me his email and helped to deliver a bucket of hot water for the morning wash.
The Raleigh bike has stood up ok so far, I stopped at a cycle workshop and had my chain oiled yesterday and my front tyre still has a very slow puncture, but will leave it for the time being. The Sturmey Archer gears being only 3, are somewhat limited and I could do with a lower gear for climbs. Now and again my pedals slip in 2nd. Maybe the hub needs oil. If anyone is reading this, please google "what oil, Sturmey Archer hub?" and preferably sms me on 0044 7877 578615 or email answer. Most grateful hopeful.
Gotta go now.
S.  23/10/14 0700
Hi again, its 1920hrs 23rd
Been an extraordinary day. Set out after a cup of tea  typically sweetened from a flask, and a quick browse through some emails from home and SA.
Met with a significant climb from the town and some exhilarating speedy down hill zooms where I felt most comfortable in the lane centre  as the road surface and the wind made being in the middle the right place to be on one hand, but on the other, ever concerned about which truck or bus may be lurking and approaching often at a great pace.
Soon the hard shoulder disappeared and things began to get narrow. Courage remains as long as I can hear the traffic from behind, quite possible until traffic approaches from ahead. Then it's laps  of the Gods stuff.
The crescendo has me wobbling as close to the edge of the tarmac as I can be. Warning hoots prevail which happily I have become somewhat immune to. A certain determination and concentration is essential to avoid a wobble, then whoosh, they all go by with a rush of wind and a whine.
On one such occasion, I noticed that a lorry from behind had slowed  to wait for a safe opportunity to go by, and as it did so, I waved in thanks with thumbs up. The lorry trundled slowly by and pulled up just ahead. A fellow driver emerged and greeted me, and clambered down from his high cab. A monster Mercedes carrying electricity plant. After exchanging greetings again and my thanks for his caution, he remarked about my good choice of bright yellow clothing and begged me to be most cautious as not all drivers were.
Well, what the hell. Before long my sturdy steed was strapped to the back of his container, and yours truly was enjoying a great view from a very tall cab.
Long and tall of it is here I am after being carried some 200kms in  Uyole  Mbeya only 100kms from the northern border with Malawi.
Staying at the Single Nice Inn. Again in the back streets which is my advice for those who seek good places beyond the visible which seem often overrated.
Shower even works and there's hot water which is welcome in the higher altitudes. I've heard that its mostly down hill to lake Nyasa and Malawi so most likely I will follow its shore for some time.
Bought lunch for Kasimu at Twiga Cafe in Igowa  on the rhs facing west. Fish steak the best yet, Satu from lake Victoria, heavenly.
We exchanged a great deal of conversation and I think I learned a little more Swahili though not conscious of it as usual. He had me chatting on his phone to various folks back in Dar and those he or we met along the way.
The countryside along the way varied dramatically from dry savannah to marshy wetlands. Rivers both dry and flowing. Here as in many previous parts visited a ring of mountains are visible to the south and west. South is my heading tomorrow.
Agriculture here abounds but not intensive, most of those I saw were tilling by hand.  Its planting time here though bananas, avo, oranges, nuts, potatoes, cabbages, onions, greens, peaches and tomatoes are all available at the local market. Many fruit trees can be seen along the roads and earlier in my journey there were many large areas dedicated to cactus.
Best bird yet was I think a Golden Eagle and I wish the camera was ready as it flew by quite closely.
Otherwise seems that wild animals are well camo'd or stay well clear from the road. Goats galore and often tied as well as some cows to  thorny grazing patches.
Everyone here has something to offer with stores and markets abundant. Several folks have mentioned corruption in govt. and today we were stopped by the police road check and a uniformed lady asked Kassimu for money and I'm glad to say that he told her he'd no money to give. Thus not encouraging bribes inevitably making the roads a more dangerous place. After all, the object is to check vehicle condition and insurance but it seems that a bribe will allow an unroadworthy vehicle to pass by.
Kuaga for now.