Sunday 30 November 2014

25th Oct.
Its 6 am while I sit in a cool breeze whirling around the riverside camp at Martins or Marty's drift on the Botswana side of the border with SA along the Limpopo river.
Was up early with some tummy pain, something which I have been rid of for a good while since arriving at Nkhata Bay back in Malawi.
Had two beef meals yesterday and loads to drink, mostly water, cold drinks and a couple of cans of bitter lemon which I mixed with Black Label larger. Very nice.
The chef has turned up and seeing him with a cup of coffee, and noting my hopeful expression has landed me with a cup as well.  The camp here last night was quiet with just two others. Norbert a German travelling in a well kitted Land Rover sporting a fridge freezer and a folding roof tent. He lives not far from the farm in Magalies, and is travelling on business.

Norman with his heavy KTM

Martins Drift pitch, Botswana SA border.


Then Norman, also a German from Munich who has ridden up from Capetown on his heavily kitted KTM990 which he had shipped to Capetown and he intends riding all the way back to Germany.
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Sunday 30th Nov 2014
So that you know, I have already been 3 nights back in Gauteng. Two nights on the farm in Magalies and last night at Boud's house not far from 4 ways in Jhb's northern suburbs.

My reading spot at the farm in Magalies, my SA home. 

It is Sunday the 30th of Nov. My goal was to reach here by the beginning of December which was becoming harder for cycling by the day. However, the speed at which I crossed both Zambia and especially Botswana, helped me to hop ahead of schedule.
From Livingstone Zambia to the border with  Botswana the journey is around 60kms. I rode about halfway and the rest on a bus. So crossed ferry near 3pm after changing my last Kwacha for just a few Pula. There were some antelope and a gathering of warthogs, the first I'd seen on my journey so far.  They were about 100m from the road overlooked by the Botswana  immigration office.  Folks tell me that this is a particularly wild corner of Botswana with big cats and elephants roaming wherever they please. Not the ideal cycling roads especially during the nights.
A bus was waiting alongside a tea room and I soon found it to be an overnight one to Francistown well to the south. 112 Pula bought me my seat and carriage for the cycle. The driver and his lady helper were enthusiastic about my mode of transport but also insisted that the route was unsuitable for cycling because of both elephants and lions roaming freely. Many of these they said could often be seen in the buses' headlights as it travelled through the African darkness.This I was keen to see and pleased with the front seat allocated to me for this very purpose. Hats off to the driver who has to be super vigilant without exceeding 70kph peering ahead for any sudden large lumps leaping into the road ahead of the bright headlights. The grass and bush is cleared either side of the road by approximately 10 to 15m to help this what must be stressful driving even during the day, let alone at night.
The night's journey was not without incident. First we came across what appeared to be a recently smashed pickup whose roof was caved in. Most likely it had turned over perhaps while trying to avoid hitting a large animal, most likely an elephant. We stopped, backed up and peered at this wreck for some moments, before driving off again when no human movement could be seen. A driver and passenger may well have been in the crushed cab but if so, neither were able to holler or signal for help.
Some while later, the left front windscreen shattered to a very loud bang. The drivers window was happily still in one piece and he thought the culprit had been an owl. More like a flying ostrich from the loud impact and bulbous impression made in the glass, which eventually fell from its frame completely. I moved back a row to shelter behind my seat in what was thereafter a very windy and chilly journey. For the first time, I hauled out my rain jacket and draped it over my shoulders for warmth against the rushing cool breeze. Kept thinking about the next owl that would fly directly into the bus so tried to keep a low profile, not easy with my 6 foot 3 frame. The driver thought my query about this rather funny while he slowed quickly for a lingering elephant, revving his engine to encourage this  beast off the road. Hats off to him though, I would not like his job responsible for up to 60 passengers along this unpredictable, nightly passage from 2100hrs to 0500hrs, our scheduled arrival time in Francis town. We stopped for a stretch a couple of times during the night and attempted to prop up the bendy window with a broom, but it soon dropped to the floor again leaving just the broom to fend off the next meaty missile. Happily avoided, we arrived at about 0540 hrs after what must be around 500 to 600 kms.
I cycled around the town in search of a good map. The photo I had of my Botswana map came from our home atlas and was wanting for detail. The tourist info store came up trumps, for I was given a good tourist map, the only one so far as I had been managing with my phone's photos of maps seen along the way.
Had a cooked breakfast and chat with a white Botswanan businessman who had travelled as he often did from his home town the capital city in the south.
Botswana quite large but having just 2 million people has its fair share of long distances between settlements which are few because of the lack if water. The road I travelled down the eastern side, is surrounded by thick bush which grows and manages to flourish from the salty ground water. Around 50 kms ti the west, the Kalahari dessert prevails so the bush must by then be scrub and tumble weeds leading eventually to the red sand dunes of the Namib. So the eastern side of Botswana has thick bush thriving in water that is not suitable for humans, though the wild animals abound.
From Francistown, I cycled south and gladly came across the occasional settlement for a good drink to cool down. People told me the next stretch would be sparse, so I tried hiking a lift only to come across the Willie and an employee. Willie had been the gentleman who I had joined for breakfast earlier.  Reckon I rode around 50kms before Willie lifted me and my bike for another 150kms to the junction for Martins Drift, one of the northern border posts with SA.
Willied had said that the distance from there was about 60kms. But after a very hot 50kms again, I discovered at a disease control barrier, where there was no food to be had, that there was at least 80kms to go. I was hungry and although carrying enough water, another long, hot, barren stretch would have exhausted me. Waving down a luxurious lorry had me well on my way again. Later when he dropped me near the border, I was able to get a nice meal of pap, beef and cabbage from the road side canteens. While I ate gratefully, a lady handed me an ice cold bottle of water without charge. A really nice gesture for a very hot and tired traveller.
So Botswana was crossed in record time. Just approximately 26 hours at a cost of 112 Pula or about £10 placed me at the Limpopo camp whose entrance is just behind the filling station just before the border bridge. The camping fee is steep compared with others at 85 Pula and there are chalets as well as pre pitched riverside tents where I spent the night in my own tent before crossing the following morning. Hippos can be heard tramping at snorting about on the other side of an electrified fence to discourage them from roaming the accommodation area, unlike the freedom they have in Zambia.
One more border to cross, this one being of most concern without a YF certificate. I had once again heard conflicting information about the need or not of this vaccination. Nerves jingled as I was asked to attend a recently set aside health department organised to try and deal with potential Ebola carriers. On the way, a big yellow sign declaring Zambia to be on the Yellow Fever list and stating clearly that a certificate is required. The Ebola questionnaire is dominant though and a no to all the questions, a smile to say so,and  not commenting on my earlier stomach pain produced a clearing stamp for the rest of the border procedures.  The official had a good gander at my passport and quizzed me about my journey all the way from Tanzania On A Bicycle!  As I had already been to see the health section, no further YF questions arose thank heavens and I was through.
More food, some Maheu and some bananas to go had me pedalling once again on an at first overcast morning.  Unlike Tanzania, Malawi and Zambia where there are numerous villages where food and often cold drinks along with well water can be found, Botswana and SA are more of a challenge. Farm and often game fencing makes any homestead unreachable.  Whereas there are villages scattered all over my routes through Tanzania, Malawi  and Zambia, there were hardly any which I noticed Botswana and in SA one can travel a long way with just a continuos fence for company and occasional locked gates. One such place on my second day through Botswana, I spotted an African with a hosepipe watering just 30m from the road but there was no way to reach him unless I climbed a barbed wire fence. About 1km further I came across a gate unlocked, so I entered and cycled back along a sand track. On enquiring, it turned out to be newly planted grass which was being watered via a tank not pumped from a nearby borehole, but using a pipe from a good distance away. I was able to cool off a bit, but had to crouch down very low as the pressure was little.
Shady trees are too good to bypass.  Banana snack and newly aquired icy water, with compliments of the game ranch folks and the Coca-Cola corp.

Then on my way from the SA border to Ellis Russ, I managed to enter the Matopi Lodge game farm where near its gate, I was able to replenish my water and give myself a good drenching, the only way to cool off. A kind African even swapped one of my warm 2 litre bottles with one from a very cold fridge. There, water is delivered in a wheeled tank, most likely towed by a tractor. I carry around 4.5 litres which on the whole has been adequate. Later I came across two Africans with a trailer full if water melons. A knife which they didn't have, I whipped from my pack and soon all three of us and others that came along gorged on this sweet beauty. Very large it was with plenty to go around and they insisted that I was not to pay for it perhaps after how thoroughly welcome this fruit appeared to the oddball cycle traveller.

This lady with my knife and very welcome gift of partaking in a large and very tasty thirst quenching water melon. I imagine that she had never seen a person consume so much of it in one go, yet still not finished, and shared around.

A whip around Ellis Russ when I finally made it there after a 120km slog made it one of the longer daily rides of this journey, revealed the increased cost of accommodation here in SA.  Best quotes were R200 for room some 12km before town and at least double that or significantly more anywhere in town.  Decided to wash at a garage, top up the water and a have a KFC dinner, the only establishment offering some salad with meals after which it was getting on for 9pm.  I had earlier spotted an open grassy expanse which were the grounds to the local NGK church. Quickly pitched my tent and was dozing in no time. Another white guy from Vereeniging introduced himself as another traveller by bus and spent the night under one building's porch 20m away.
Finally some rain before I arose in the morning.  The porch guy was on the lookout for welding or other construction work at a new power station being built. He and I had a good buffet breakfast together in a nearby hotel. I paid for us both as he was also hungry and the nights accommodation had been free.
I set off once again for the 130km slog to Thabazimbi. 20km into my journey,  a pick up  pulled over to handle a call which was once again, too much temptation. On announcing that he was heading to Jhb, my planned route via Ruatenburg quickly evaporated and approximately two hours later I was on the N14 juntion N1 leading towards Krugersdorp and the farm in Magalies. Another lift my same method saw me to Krugersdorp happily as there was a very strong headwind to struggle against. I rode out of Krugersdorp another 15kms and then managed to get a final lift ti Magalies town where I bought some food in the new supermarket then cycles the last 8km in the darkened starry, moonlit night. My Tennant Daan and his dogs where very surprised to see me. A long day, but a good distance covered , cutting my journey by at least 3 days.
Blue Gums, and Thorns obscuring half of the (in some parts) 100 year old farmhouse.

Daan on the farm.  Trotting after one of 20 unwilling Jersey's. They are not keen on being sprayed with the anti tick stuff.


Our farm Thula Nyoni. View from North West koppie Magaliesburg

Total mileage covered is approximately 3500 miles and I can only estimate the cycled miles to have been about 2000 of them altogether.  Its been a fine journey and an all round great experience. Thanks to the good people I have met along the way who have been interested, surprised, supportive, most friendly as well as hospitable. Many of them I will continue to be in touch and once this diary, I hope contains photos I have taken, I will provide a reminder and links to it again.
Thanks for your interest.
Simon.

Monday 24 November 2014



Mosi Oa Tunya
The smoke that thunders is the local name for Victoria falls. May have been a quote from Livingstone says vague memory.
No, I see that his quote was...
The most wonderful sight I had witnessed in Africa. No one can imagine the beauty of the view from anything witnessed in England. It had never been seen before by European eyes, but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight. This he wrote in 1857. 16 Nov.
So mosi... is the African name for the falls meaning the smoke that thunders.

Took a 10km ride down to the falls this morning. Got to the Royal Livingstone Hotel at around 0730hrs. Very posh but a lot younger than I expected. There was an original rest house along the river, but story is that travellers often stayed at Livingstone town to avoid the malaria. Still seem to be many in the town in the evenings.


There is a very pleasant foot/cycle/golf cart path through the trees where from the main road you can make your way through the shady trees past lavish looking apartments more like high class two storey homesteads. Baboons and monkeys galore, zebra and antelope share these grounds.  Folks were breakfasting on the terrace overlooking the tamed at   this time, Zambezi, while I took a dip in the pool, also above the river's edge and (after my complimentary coffee, fruit juice and pastries, organised by Kennedy one, the night manager) well large enough for a decent swim. Tame because it's level is low before the coming rains.


This makes for the ultimate playground for dipping in the rock  pools way above the sheer drop into gauge one, and the rafting going on in wild waters of the falls gauges below.  A rock pool swim I had to do after a buzz of a time in the rapids yesterday. If you walk to the falls views, charged at 20US or 5 kwacha for a cold drink the views are stunning, including the rain or moon bow day or night. Much clearer from the Zambian side, especially during high waters when the spray can obscure the views especially from the Zimbabwe which is how it was when Julie and I where there more than 15 years ago. Beyond the walkways on the upstream side, various pools can be reached and swum in. I met with Kennedy from stall 45 of the curio stores behind the falls entrance. He and I swam in two of the pools which are of crystal clear waters abundant of tiny and small fish. Fish eagles can be seen swooping about. A cormorant landed by me having just caught an unfortunate swimmer, promptly swallowed the same, then spread his wings for a quick dry. Dreams are made of this.
A Cormorant landed and promptly swallowed the fish then spread his wings to dry.
 

The white water rafting yesterday was a real treat. First time and a massive rush at times. All the rapids are navigable at this time, some being way challenging. They rated 1 to 6 with many at or near the high end. Major bouncing, drenching, gasping, swimming, both voluntarily  and not. The water is an ideal swimming temperature and often the only way to cool down on the 31km stretch of world class fun.


All 7 of us were tipped out of the capsized raft made from tough inflatable rubber, early on and a tumbling white water gasping swim followed rapidly. One has to turn to try and move downstream feet first, the reason being,  better to step onto a rock feet first rather the head first.
I noticed my watch was missing from my wrist straight away. Its one  I gifted to John, my late step father. When he died, I was able to keep it. Not hugely expensive, just emotional value on a good Citizen solar powered watch. Whilst clambering on again, I did'nt quite make it over the gunnels and back onto the raft before the next rush of water swallowed me once more but this time a good breath helped me to relax whilst whizzing and bouncing along as though in a giant washing machine. Having completed  mourning the loss of my watch whilst grabbing a lift from the passing raft, I was hauled back in and presented with same and brightened considerably.  Miracles do happen. The watch had some how  stayed aboard the capsized raft. Thank you Lord.
Rafting was really the most wonderful experience. Highly recommended, especially if you, like me love the water and to swim. Well swim as much as you can while locked into a well designed life vest and bumper helmet. Without the vest, the under water bits make go on way too long. Initially I spluttered a bit, but soon learned to take a good breath on the fast approaching rough stuff. Nose plugs are likely useful at times. All the rapids have names which describe them in a way, often suggesting a wild time and never disappointing. Devil this and Oblivion that, etc.
A good appetite is met with a generous picnic lunch with apples and cold fruit juice. Good footwear is a bonus, better than my socks when it came to clambering over the hot  black rocks, once for lunch and another time when we had to bypass one very wild and boiling suicidal section. Got to have been the most thrilling lifetime experience for me, and there have been a good few.

South Bank of Chobe River.  Just arrived in Botswana.  Namibia is on the opposite bank. Sat here and had a bottle of cider while I waited for the night bus for my journey to Francistown Bots.

6.30pm 24th Nov.
I'm sitting on what I thought was the Zambezi's south bank listening to snorting hippos. Turns out it was the south bank of the Chobe River which seperates Botwsana from the corner of Namibia leading to the Caprivi Strip.
So, first day in Botswana after having zipped it seems, through Zambia.
Had my trip's first cider for 20 Pula, a bit steep but lovely setting. Seems  folks use their own speed boats as well as the downstream ferry to cross the river.  Think its around 14 to the pound, so not dear by UK prices. Gather one can find pubs here where beers are half again at ten Pula. But without the view and manicured lawns.
Have decided to grab an overnight bus to Francis town and will then consider my options. Driver said that often Elephant and lion are seen in the headlights. Jolly hot earlier. Expecting some roasting rides and no rain to speak off yet. Just a few drops here and there, at times U have been praying for it above the sweltering tarmac. Early morning and night rides may well be called for. As long as the roads are good and quiet, riding at night can be most rewarding. Following my nose and the stars.
All for now.
S.

Saturday 22 November 2014

Its 0355hrs Sat 22nd Nov.
Waiting for sunrise. Bumped into Garry yesterday morning at around 11am. He had ridden all the way to Lusaka as usual and had arrived the day before as had I. A small world, he was a passenger in a modern pickup which pulled up outside  a food store I was about to enter for a late breakfast. Guess he had been living it up with a friend he knows from Lusaka. A brief exchange and his comment that most likely he will catch me up again saw them drive off while I tucked into a samusa and  smoked chicken leg. He will have to be going some as time is rapidly flying by for my plan to be in Jhb by early December.
I am at some Pastor accommodation in a Catholic Church grounds at ..... Only cycled around 50km yesterday before managing to arrange a lorry lift from a fella who was waiting in a roadblock queue. An ideal place to ask about lifts while they are all stationary. So 200 km to go to reach Livingstone where nearby the border with Zambia. A real tourist playground with Vic falls, rapids, bungi jumps etc. Most likely spend one night and enquire about onward travel overland through Botswana. Its a bother being in a hurry but time and tide waits for nobody.
Had an email from my father in law yesterday, reminding me to be home before the 13th for Norfolk weekend away. Also still need to arrange mt return flight. Will try to do later today.
I pulled into a clinic yesterday to try and organise a yellow fever solution. Either I have to buy a cert, get a vac and cert, or get an allergy letter. The final hurdle is from Bot. to SA as I'm told the next border into Bot is no issue. I met a fellow traveller on the coach tother day who also has been travelling without a cert. He was asked to pay a bribe at his last crossing place, so I have been fortunate so far. The lorry driver who carried me yesterday mat be able to help. He has a cert. without having had the vaccine. Happy days. May have to di the same especially if the vaccine continues to be rare as rocking horse s..t as has been the case so far. I cannot help but conclude that the whole issue is an overstayed way of screwing money from tourists. There is much conflicting information about its need it not.
Its 4 minutes to 0430 hrs and my phone should bleep to wake me. I have arranged to join the same driver this morning before 5 for the final leg to Livingstone. Not looking forward to retrieving my bike from his very dirty trailer. He carries cement down and returns to Lusaka with coal. I looked like a chimney sweep after hauling my bike onto the trailer yesterday.
Now back in the lorry. Hope my bike is still on board. I heard from an English lady who works at Njara at Nkhata Bay where I stayed that the heavens have opened up and they are having a wet time. She asked if I had received their email regarding my outstanding bill. Did warn them that it may take sometime to sort it by PayPal. I replied to her email briefly yesterday, while someone had allowed me a quick ten minute access instead of 12hours for 50 kwacha which was no good for me.
Should reach Livingstone later this morning all going well. There Iceland will seek some accommodation hopefully with WiFi and also hope to find an internet cafe which may be better than trying to use my phone for booking my return flight. Also need to plan my onward journey so that I have a decent time in Jhb.  I may aim to go direct to the farm in Magalies as I may be approaching from the west via Gaborone unless I cross into SA earlier to the North into Groeblersburg I believe.
Have now arrived Livingstone. Very hot. May stay one night, then head for border 60 kms from here.

Friday 21 November 2014

A Norwegian fella we met told me about a riverside camp called Croc Valley. But I'm next door at Tracks n Trails on the opposite side of the National Park.
More or less due north of Chipata. About 130 kms, its the first open camp I have been in. Elephants and hippo roam around the grounds. Earlier, I was confronted by a mother of a baby. She turned towards me and extended her trunk , a back off warning I didn't need. Earlier we were shining a bright torch at a , apparently, small hippo. Not sure I'd like to be close to a bigger one. Loads of monkeys and baboons about and some really beautiful antelope. No need to go into the park, its good enough right here.
Likely I will stay a couple of nights, then get my tail end over to Lusaka pronto. Time is getting short if I'm to reach Jhb by December beginning.
Last night I stayed with a family whose father is a retired civil servant and has continued on a 3 year contract as a district admin chief.  He had apparently been to visit, last weekend, the former long standing president Kaunda who is now in his 90s. Still going strong and quite independent I gather.
He and his wife invited me into there home along with cats, a dog and several mice in the bedroom I slept in having been piled high with bags of maize. Had some really good fish from lake Kariba last night and good breakfast offered this morning.
Frogs are croaking and baboons barking. Pretty wild here, glad my tent is at the top of a platform.
This didn't stop a cheeky ape nicking my leftover chips from last night. Caught a glimpse of the blighter as he pinched the sealed plastic bag with chips in a polystyrene box. Only evidence left below were bits of the box scattered about.
As it happens, I stayed just one night at the riverside camp. Joined 5 others including our knowledgeable driver and experienced spotter on an afternoon and evening game drive into the park. 75 US but glad I went. Not seem a leopard before till yesterday late afternoon. List seen is..
Giraffe, Elephant, Kudu, Hippo, a Croc, Impala, Water buck and other, shrews and larger spotted versions. A male lion who roared dramatically several times while in the spotlight. Eagles,Bats,Starlings, Ox peckers and others. Finally a chameleon which was plucked from a bush then returned after being held and photographed.
After the drive I was dropped of at a village restaurant where I had earlier arranged to leave my bike and bag. Then I had to dose a bit before joining this coach along some very bumpy so far, roads to Lusaka. It started out at 3am and its now after 8 and I have had some shut eye between the jerks. The journey will take at least 9 hours. Lusaka here I come. Glad not to cycling really as this road is very narrow, at many times gravel, and no hard shoulder. Seems all cyclists have to use the sandy edge. Hope Garry and Urs have got on ok. Bet Garry is past the Capital by now. He and Urs have more time and feel obliged to cover all by crank. Though Urs did say that he will find alternatives at appropriate times as opposed to Garry's purest intentions. Until today, I've estimated covering around 80 percent of my journey by bike, or around 1000 miles maybe a bit more. % is dropping today however with this, the longest hop so far. Oh well, spending more time lakeside in Malawi has been well worth it. Glad too for the brief detour to the Game reserve these last couple of days. A quick 100 dollar spend distorts the frugal budget all round, but that cost was relatively small compared to some game fees I have been aware of in other parks along the way. Okavango has always appealed but may be over the top this time. We'll see, it may also be too far off track with time ever shortening.
0830 21/11/14 ..Had a good night's sleep but suddenly well pissed off this morning. A juicy fat orange that I had saved for breakfast is now being enjoyed by a manky monkey. Little b..rt nicked it within the 30 seconds it took for me to leave it on the chair, reach into my tent to grab a knife with which to cut it.  Subsequent view of the little blighter still busy munching same confirmed this atrocity and a brief chase and frantic search for an appropriate monkey missile produced nada while it skipped nonchalantly with my orange out of reach into a thicket of trees. Manager here has organised a pot of coffee to offset my misery. Gaud give me a gun!
I am at the Eureka Camping Park about 10km south of Lusaka on the Livingstone rd. Really nice place apart from the idiots who leave stuff for the monkeys to pinch. There are also zebras I have seen but many others to find on walking trails around.  The camp is set back a good way from the road so only stars and wildlife apart from the pub music last night which didn't stop me going straight off. Yesterday my journey to Lusaka was a long one. I boarded a coach at 3 am and arrived at Lusaka bus station at around 3 pm. Last hour was most frustrating in heavy traffic where I could have cycled far quicker from earlier stops.
Today I'm gonna go and have some a late breakfast along the way somewhere after
trying to find a hotspot .

Saturday 15 November 2014

Sambani Lodge.
 I am at the Sambani Lodge Chincheche which is about 50 to 60km I think from where I left in Nkhata Bay yesterday afternoon. I tried leaving at around 4pm and then carried on onto the darkness for about an hour or so, aiming for this place which was recommended to me by Garry, one of the lodge owners back at the bay.
There's a fine sandy beach here, the sand being courser in Nkhata. The days are streaming by so I have to keep on moving, and will leave around 2pm and hopefully find a lorry or bus that can carry me a good way before today's end.
The heat during the day is pretty intense so setting off late in the afternoon and then carrying on into the darkness is much cooler and drains less energy. Have missed an early morning start so pm the only option today. Best way would be up  early for 5am start then stop under a tree by the lake and move again from around 4pm. The roads here are really quiet and even more so after darkness. Its already dark here from about 6.30pm and happens quickly, the moon only following around 3 hours later at present. 
Went for a half moonlit walk along the beach last night. The sand here is white and powdery, really easier to walk on compared to the gravelly  but still pleasant sand back at Nkhata.
Little in the way of surf here, but will take a dip soon. My feet have been a bit swollen for the past few days. Seems yesterday's ride has sorted mostly. Might have been the sun on my normally shod feet. But since I ditched my shoes back in Mzuzu, I had been wearing sandals and using sun lotion on my lily white sensitive feet. Now they're looking a bit browner. One evening I got several mozzie bites and together with the sun and perhaps the antimalarials as well, swollen were my feet. I think walking a lot with flops also doesn't help.
So yesterday I set off with socks and recently acquired veldskoens. They're part worn, low cut, regular designed shoes with reasonable soles which will hopefully last out the rest if my journey. Short stints on the bike with sandals are ok, but the shoes are better in the long run. Feet much better today, but not yet fully sorted.
The new tyres I fitted in Mzuzu have proven good so far. Not sure how my pump will cope if I need some more air. Too afraid to try until I also have a local pump, as the valves here are a strange Indian design.
Seem that there is around 200km or 120 miles to go along the lakeside rd before reaching Nkotakota or some such named place where I will head inland in the border direction with Zambia, perhaps missing the capital Lilongwe. Money will soon become an issue, not sure when the next Standard bank atm will show up. I may have to bite the bullet and try to use a visa card and see if Barclaycard's over fussy security issues are going to cause grief. On previous occasions, a pre-recorded message has been delivered to my home phone asking me to let them know if I'm travelling. How one is meant to respond from abroad I'll never know. If they did their homework properly, then they'd know I purchased an airline ticket and might assume therefore that I am traveling. Such fun.
15/11/14 0900hrs
Am waiting for my phone to charge. Seems its not holding for some reason and its the only source of maps I have. Need to revert to good old paper. Tech is fine till it caputs.
Two nights ago, I reached Matiki Town where there is a sugar factory some 5kms from the centre. Standard Banks are few and far between so one had to take a detour to the sugar factory where the Bank is strategically,  for sugar employees, located.  Managed to leave my backpack with the staff at the petrol station where I had camped overnight. A very strong headwind made the bank detour a tough ride especially when I arrived to find that the Mastercard wouldn't bloody work anyway. These days the bank staff are powerless to advance cash over the counter from a card. So ended up using the Visa credit account which no doubt will cost an arm and a leg. The manager I spoke to said that he must enquire about the mastercard problem as someone else had an issue the day before. I suggested that it may have been to my advantage he had already made that enquiry the day before. He did not seem to appreciate this much, as typically, being in the African time zone, to hurry is alien.
The return journey was way more enjoyable with the following wind and a chat to fellow cyclist, a sugar worker. Hard work he said for the little money 40 000 kwacha per month. That equates to about £60 per month. Well above the average income which I gather is below Tanzania 's £13 per month.  Although I have not read about Malawi's per capita income, this figure is surely skewed by the demographics here where most of the population is below age 15. Tanzania seemed much busier with traffic always passing on the roads. Malawi on the other hand has many more bicycles and hardly any traffic on the roads, at least in the north. I'm told the south is busier.
My pitch at the garage turned out challenging. Ants seemed to stream in and the blighters were crawling all over me before long. Clambering out, I sat on a plastic chair before giving all my stuff a good shake and then climbed in my sleeping bag and wrapped around me,my Mosquito net for the first time. This held them back and the net needed plucking a great deal by morning.  Needless to say, there are many bites on and around my back now. No idea if they are from mozzies, ants or spiders.
Before my trip to the bank that morning, I decided to find a good breakfast. The posh Kasasa club was a few kms away and I enjoyed a good choice of, fruit, juices, coffee, toast, yoghurt, Spanish omelette, bacon, pork sausage, bran flakes, milk, plus a cup cake and apple to go.  At around £5, this was pure indulgence and the best breakfast so far on this journey.
Later, I began to enquire about a bus or other public transport for a well needed hop towards Zambia, ever concerned now about time and distance still to cover. So yesterday, I boarded a mini mini bus driven by a fella who is not a regular taxi, but was heading to Lilongwe from where I am typing now. Last night I stayed in a dorm at a Christian Theology College. Good night sleep, bit hot and mozzied at times, but better than the tent the night before.
Gather there is around 100kms to the Zambia border from here and I will set of soon on reasonably flat terrain I'm told with a following wind.
Have arrived at a lodge about 10km from the Zambian border.  Its been an eventful day. A fast pace ride , a pub lunch and bottle of KK beer. Well, no food at the pub but got a chicken rice and veg takeaway and joined some folks at the bar. An off duty GP and police sergeant made for good company.
Goats were a bother today, they are extraordinary animals with such a strong sense of purpose especially when crossing the roads, something they seem to do all the time. Car hooters do hurry then along, but I have not found any human utterance effective yet. One just has to assume they'll leap out in front of you every time. So a fast and at times swerving and swearing day.
At one village, I had to stop at a little store called Msungu Store.  Today like most others, the children begin to get very excited and shout Asungu Asungu as you cycle by. A white man riding a bicycle is surely a unique thing. Many also however shout Give me money. Why is my most common reply. Earlier this afternoon however, for the first time, I said F.Off. Not loudly but almost to myself in frustration. Think it was soon after swerving around a goat.
Good news is I've met up with Urs from Germany. We are on the same track, though he plans to spend some time with his girlfriend who will meet him in Namibia, then returning to his bike at Lusaka and continue on his journey to  Capetown. We had a beer and meal together this evening and chewed the cud. Apparently Gary from UK is in Zambia already.
Took some photos today, one of the old Merc Lorry I had a brief lift with. Brief because it was overheating the had a blowout. A big bang the pull over for the sixth time and off I got. Fella had loaded 15 tonnes on 10 tonne lorry.
The other was outside a pub where a cycle was parked with a rather annoyed looking chicken tied to the carrier, while the abductor played pool inside. What fate behold that unsuspecting bird  it wondered. There have been goats galore and even large pigs joy riding on the back of bikes, but always passing so the chicken was first to be recorded. I will try to download some pics when I get on a laptop sometime.
Looks like I'll be saying goodbye to Malawi tomorrow. Big M has certainly been the limelight of my journey so far. Little really, but a Big  deal for me.

Monday 10 November 2014

Good northerly breeze up this morning. Hope its the same tomorrow for my onward journey down the coastal rd which I gather has several resorts scattered about.
Been for a walk into town this morning and had some lunch in a canteen next to the fruit and veg market. 70p bought me a generous bowl of rice with beef and veg. Cold water included.
Then a local bottled cold drink  and a SA Granny Smith apple together costing the same again.
Also been on the hunt for some shoes and tried on some strong suade leather part worn ones I have asked to be set aside. At about £7 they seem dear or at least as much as they'd be in the UK. May bite the bullet and get them as cycling with sandals all the time is hard on the feet.
This afternoon, I have been whiling the time away with Kelvin who runs the One Love Cafe. I have been the only customer so he and I have just been chatting and putting the world to right.
There are some lovely little colorful birds fluttering around the trees which frame this lovely view. Been trying to photograph them but its really tricky getting autofocus to work well with a long zoom.
Well, I don't have a particular destination in mind tomorrow, preferring to stop wherever I choose to finish the days ride.  There is a certain advantage to having the mobile home that is my tent,  some of the nicest places I have stayed so far, have been camping often in very small hamlets. So its south I will go and at some point begin heading inland towards Lilongwe.
Kelvin has offered to grill some butter fish which I've not had yet so without much persuasion, it looks like the off will be the day after tomorrow. The bay here is a very good place to be, so tough leaving it behind.
Its night now at 1930hrs , darkness comes quite suddenly, the days similar to the nights in length. There is variation between the seasons here with days being about  2 hours shorter in the winter.
The ferry has been here today heading east and south to the islands and southern parts. NZ Ian has boarded it for pastures new I gather. Decided not to go myself thinking that anywhere along the lake will do just fine. I'm told Loikoma is good to visit. Hopeful next time.
Back at Njaya , poole, quiet music a toasted sandwich and a tall beer. The lake is all a twinkle with fishing lights that are then rudely interrupted by the rising, red at fist, now yellow moon, competing with the fisherman's pricks of light. The moon instead is casting a ghostly, yellow, shimmering glow across the lake. Really cool here and warm at the same time.
Been up early this morning from around 6. Each day there are more ants cruising around in my tent. They're little ones who seem to mind their own business and not bite or bother humans. Well me at least. When I first pitched the tent almost, it must be, a week ago now, they poured some ant deterrent powder around. Better to just let them go about their business I think. Not sure what business but likely involves perspiration or other moisture I guess. Other than nuts, no food and they're not interested in peanuts.
Breeze again from the north this morning. Gary emailed to say that he may take a road avoiding Lilongwe, I had noticed a route inland to the north. He and I are on the same route so hope to catch up with him again in Zambia maybe. That's if I ever leave the lake here. Twill be with reluctance.
My regular breakfast of 3, on the menu 2 toast and coffee.  On my first morning I asked if the bread was cut nice and thick? Turned out already sliced so un that case I said, better have 3. May have set a precedent but suspect applies only to me.
Gonna download this now and tuck in.
S. 11/11/14 0820hrs

Saturday 8 November 2014

At Njaya Lodge Nkhata Bay. Paradise here, swimming in the lake and chilling out. There is scuba here but will borrow some snorkelling gear. Folks very laid back here and I've been up since before 6, been for a dip and waiting for someone to turn up and offer me some breakfast which apparently starts at 7 but as I'm the only one here right now, wish me luck!
There is a nearby lodge that's more popular where I met with fellow cyclists and others last night for a pizza and a couple of local Carlsberg Kuche Kuche beers. The ride down from Mzuzu yesterday was exhilarating as mostly downhill though into the heat of the low lakelands. There are two other proper cyclists here with fancy German touring bikes. Sporting conceptually the same rear wheel hubs as my old Sturmey Archer 3 speed, but with a selection of 12 gears plus all the modern high tech nav gear linked to their iPhones and the net. Beats my  map photos and compass, but way over the top really. I say real cyclists, as these guys travelled way further and are inclined to be anally anaracical purests. Garry the west countryman has clocked 7500 miles already all the way from Blighty and Swiss German Urs started from Germany to Istanbul, then Uganda onwards.
So I feel like a pretender though each mile I clock on my old Raleigh shopping bike must surely equate to greater effort compared to their fancy get ups. Garry sold his metalic blue, white piped leather seated Jaguar in order to pay for his fancy touring cycles machine. Its rugged with a dynamo that charges all the computerised comms and satnav gear which keeps track of his every move and records same on a fancy website that readers can browse and even send him some beer money if they are so inclined. Should you do so, (link previously referenced) please make sure you request that he also buys me one too, thank you.
Its 7th of Nov already but too good hereto be moving on just yet. Been two nights so far and had planned at least 4 or maybe more. Swam round two bays yesterday with some snorkelling gear yesterday with flip flops tied to my belt. Took 40minutes or so, quite a challenge as the wind was up causing a fine  swell. Waves on shore big enough to body surf. Really is like fresh water sea here at times with golden crunchy, sandy beach. Fresh fish being cooked on the beach while dodging sweet falling mango filled trees. Couldn't take any money with me yesterday ad I swam to the resort then had lunch with NZ Ian at Rasta/ Artist Kelvin's One Love Café, then dinner last night at Mayorka's, the more popular of the resorts. Need still to pay both bills after welcome advanced credit.
Now waiting for a steak sandwich for lunch after a late morning swim while sipping a Kuche Kuche. Life could not get much better than this.
As I swam round the bay yesterday and the previous evening I had walked unnoticeably with another, I got rather lost returning last night. Ended up walking thrice up the steep hill, each of the first two times, convinced I'd taken the wrong turn. Even with the full moon, the unfamiliar terrain together with a walk across the beach proved to be a trying task and I nearly retraced my steps in order to swim back. 3.30am apparently when I finally rocked up at the hotel and my garden pitched tent. Well groggy this morning at 0730 feeling overslept, but nothing that a cool shower could 'nt deal with.
Think I'll venture into the busy town this evening for a meal after paying the bills left behind from yesterday.
Looking forward to getting some good fresh local grilled Butter fish with some rice and veg. Gonna try and go canoe fishing one morning for about an hour at 5am. Lines are baited and left out to be collected at around 4pm later in the day. The Scampi, around 3 cm long,are used to bait the hooks.
Planning a 40 minute canoe paddle tomorrow to visit a sight where people leap off high rocks above  into the sea.
This evening Ian from NZ and I have walked into the town for a meal. I've ordered fish and chips with a side salad.
Twas good grub, fish was a fillet of lake fish, not sure which. Done via casserole rather than deep fried with a pile of chips and a good salad. Bit dearer than I expected, but at just under £6 with a beer and cold drink in a comfortable environment, who can complain?
Today Ian and I borrowed a Canadian type canoe to paddle south past the bay and its headland to the Rock jumping beach. I'd  heard ten meters, the highest leap, but it was more like 6m so it looked a synch but as always when perched above looking down, ones bravery begins to dilute.  Clambering up across the sun baked rocks requires some nifty foot work, bit like the Cha Cha, necessary to avoid baking one's soft European feet.
Ian went first so my courage had to accumulate once again and with a splosh my old dignity  remained in tact.
Good news is, we only managed to tip up and over once when Ian clambered out of the canoe for the first time,  and I toppled over head first into some shallow water, accompanied by some raucous laughter from folks on the beach behind. Placing the phone and camera into a sealed plastic bag paid off after all.
Lunch was bread, tomatoes, onions and some dried scampi, one of the staples for the lake livers. Pudding of bananas and peanuts which we were obliged to share with some local children enjoying their weekend away from school by the lake. They ate most of the fish too along with water we carried.
It's going to be hard leaving this place, now contemplating boarding as ferry for Likoma Island early tomorrow morning may leave the bike and other stuff here for a few days. There are many miles to go and time is shortening.
So highlights today were the paddling, leaping, snorkelling, and the curious Fish Eagle which glided close by with its distinctive call. Maybe it was surprised to see two white mzungus in a canoe most often containing Mafrica black ones.
until next time,
S.

Tuesday 4 November 2014

Nkhata Bay on the way.
Sounds too good to be missed as I wait for a cheese and tomato sandwich which cannot be toasted for lack of electricity. Not sure how they're doing the coffee? No such thing as fast food here, everything happens on African slow motion. Here in Mzuzu the town is busy with some cars, taxi cycles and pedestrians.
Can feel the tummy cramps marching on again so will have to whip next door to the chemist and get some pain pills which eventually calm things down again. In two minds about what's been causing the intermittent lower abdominal pain persevering. Maybe it is the doxycycline and I have decided to take a break from it to see what happens. The pharmacist was very patient and most helpful. He has organised some Malaria treatment for me which I will carry so that if i suspect M, I can take that.
Had a fruit full day here what with the chemist as well as arranging for some car tyre sandals to me made. I traded in my very thin soled shoes and paid just over £1 for the sandals. Then I arranged for two new tyres, an inner tube, a new spoke, and some additional rubber for my handlebars. All this fitted for £7, again trading in the old original Raleigh tyres that had been puncturing all too often. New tyres are Nylon from India.
Been camped at Joy's place for second night and will move in down the 3000 feet to the lake at Nkhata Bay in the morning.
Twice dropped in at the superstore Shoprite for a dose of West. All things refrigerated and a good bakery makes it hard to resist. Guzzled a sausage roll, large bottle of beer and an apple pie (one left for later) at around 4pm this afternoon. Pure paradise.
The journey here from the Mushroom resort in Livingstonia through the hills over the gravel rd was spectacular, often slow going steep up and down with the best but, the last 10 or so km downhill to meet again wth the M1 main rd.
It is really wonderful being away from the beaten track. Though here in the north of Malawi, the beaten track is very quiet anyway, there is still a bug difference between the hill communities and those along main roads. Its the mountain folks versus the road folks, or proper rural compared to plastic rural if you know what I mean hopefully. More peaceful and neater by far, proper Africa as I like to think. More in tune with their environment and not consumerised at least outwardly, and surely so in whole.
Gonna get some grub and a drink so until next time.
S.

Friday 31 October 2014

Magnificent Malawi
Yesterday was pure bliss. I have swam, drank, and canoed lake Nyasa.
Today will be my third in Malawi but having arrived in late afternoon on the 25th, it was my first full day yesterday.
Now waiting for sunrise over the lake. Its 0515 and my farmer host has just loped off to dig up some sweet potatoes for breakfast, and I have just rolled out of my tent  for only  the third time in two weeks.  Pitched about 200m from the lake side, its waves sound just like a sea shore. If you didn't know this was fresh water, you might get very thirsty round here as the sand is just like the best beach sand you'll find anywhere. This is a paradise, no question. There are crops growing behind,  farm animals around, and a beautiful fresh water lake full of fine fish ahead. Now going for an early morning swim.
Swimming in the lake is just superb. Take the salt from the sea, add sunshine and an endless sandy beach, and there you have it. Lovely Lake Nyasa.
I set at about 0900 after breakfast of toast, a fried egg and some white bare and black tea. I was offered a Sachet of LL milk, but felt ill inclined to indulge selfishly when there were six children to feed. The village Headman and his wife have been most welcoming, but I didn't want to stretch things. The fish were freshly caught overnight and I had bought a small bucket full of 2 inch long White Bait.
Well fed, I got going at around 9 after  family photo session and an exchange of addresses.
A tough ride from the start, a warm head wind had me struggling to make good headway even on the flat terrain parallel to the lake shore  which varied from around 500m to a km away. I stopped a good few times for a cold drink, each one disappearing at a rate of knots and as usual feeling somewhat self conscious while the onlookers stared enviously at what for them may have been pure luxury.
Later, I pulled off the road early in the afternoon and headed lakeside.  Plunging into the lake once again, my only audience, a mother and child, two cows, some cormorants and a piglet.
Short of power to recharge phone, so will summarize and maybe add later.
Got going again a couple of hours later, cooler but darkness caught up and the last 20km ridden with just tail light. Two joung lads told me if the Hollander location which turned out to be a well sorted campsite. Having arrived exhausted, I had downed a Fanta provided by Flo, the wife of Jan who run the FloJa Foundation which has grown from a patch of land over 6 years into a mini paradise for the 80 odd children who attend the preschool. Run as a charity, all money received from the campsite and two bungalows goes into teaching and feeding the daily attending kids who are selected as economically vulnerable and some disabled children.
Had such a good nights sleep on the double hummock under a canopy of trees with the starry sky backdrop only 20 yards from the lapping lake edge, that I chose to sleep in the same spot for three nights.
Been having issues with bunged up tummy for at least 4 to 5 days, but pleased to report some movement (thank heavens) yesterday following some laxatives offered by the staff of the Mushroom Farm where I have stayed for two nights also out in the open, overlooking a steep escarpment around 750m up from the lake shore.
I can see the lake stretching forever way down below from my open air open den on the edge of a steep cliffs edge.
Some welcome clouds keeping things cool after the 5am sun up. The Mushroom Farm is an eco camp with cliff edge cabins and tents all enjoying the dramatic view.
At FloJa I hooked up with Garry from England, who has ridden his bicycle all the way, barring a West/East flight to get around closed borders by Ebola. Has made my journey rather insignificant but we are on the same course to Jhb from here, but he plans to reach Capetown!
Gary has a much better grip on the techno stuff, and has a much more organised website diary of his journey including I understand a way for viewers to send him some beer money if they choose via paypal. Cheeky git, so if any contributions result from this note, the make sure you add explain where you found his website below and ask that he offer me a pint as well. Thank you.
www.longbikeride.co.uk
Missing the lake swimming, but yesterday we walked to the falls for a swim and then on to Livingstonia for lunch. Last night the staff cooked an excellent meal laying on some wine and other drinks on the house as a Halloween celebration.
Its about £2.50 per night upwards to stay in this stunning spot.
Bye for now,
S.

Friday 24 October 2014

This morning after an embellished breakfast which would otherwise have been a copy of yesterday so added tomato to the plain omlette from the market and some remaining paw paw from the night before made for a tastier version. The tomatoes here taste as they should, unlike the ASDA ones back home.
So got going at around 8  and headed for the little bakery shop to thank a young Muslim lady who kindly walked at least half a mile with me in search of suitable accommodation. Then arranged to record the landladies cell number and rang me later to see that I was comfy. with a quick detour to the crafts place for a email check. Overwhelming kindness and concern, she was like a mother hen to me. Most folks are only too pleased to make you feel welcome here.
A quick detour down to the arts and crafts spot for a disappointing email check. Come on folks, drop me a line. You know I'll always reply. Been hunting about for WiFi this evening to no avail so replying may take a while.
Iringa is high on a hill so descending would be great fun but for the blasted speed bumps. Cycles should not need to be subject to such measures but unfortunately the ripples and bumps on the Tanzanian roads do not consider cyclists.
So who goes "now u Si mi, now u don't" ? That would be a black man crossing a zebra crossing. But earlier today, we had " black, black,white, black,black" Best way I can describe the Tanzanian peloton experienced earlier. I managed to tuck in with fellow cyclists today who seemed very pleased to be riding along with this msungu.  Leading the pack was a young fella with a load of maize. Others apart from me were free from loads but taking advantage of slip streaming me and maize man ahead. He was super fit and although in his shelter from the cross wind, tough to keep up with. No gears on their bike either makes them all the more impressive.
Tough day with horrendous hills but vista views. Covered around 50 miles which was good  for the terrain.
I was told of a camping farm along the way which was supposed to be 100m off the main rd, but was over a mile up a steep hill.  The camp was surrounded by the first security fence I've seen, apparently installed after an armed robbery incident. I signed in and had a look around but decided to move on with plenty of time to reach the next town Mafinga where I am now.
It had been a gruelling day, not too hot but the sun , wind and hills made for a tiring estimated 80km traveled.
As usual, I tend to recce around to find a room or camp site. Rooms here abound and I have found one which is massive, big enough to ride my bike in a tight circle, double bed, net not needed, and on suite bathroom. The taps don't work, but I have two large buckets of water a loo, basin, and mirror. A bargain at 5000 shillings or under £2. Another guest here who is a teacher trainee travelling from Nyasa, the east side of lake Malawi to Dar by coach, a two day trip for him, speaks some English and he and I had dinner last night. Deep fried pork, like meaty scratchings, some veg and typical Ugali (maize porridge) which is very filling and I returned a third of the portion served as usual.
Quite chilly here in the evenings and people here wear coats or jumpers. Still glowing from the cycling earlier, I managed to stay in short sleeves and t-shirt. After the meal I hunted about for WiFi but not found. Ended up in quite pub/night club for a bottle of Safari.
Sat next to a chap who spoke who turned out to be another GP, who gave me some muscle relaxant analgesic made here in Tanzania. Well travelled, he told me about his times in Jamaica and Brazil. A Reggae fan too so all round a really nice bloke.  Gave me a lift back to the Guest House in his little Toyota Yaris, called differently here.
Have had a good sleep, its 0620 and some loud music is playing. No food here so may seek something small before heading on after gathering my stuff at present, spread about the place.
Just been a knock on my door, its Bonus who I eat with last night. He has given me his email and helped to deliver a bucket of hot water for the morning wash.
The Raleigh bike has stood up ok so far, I stopped at a cycle workshop and had my chain oiled yesterday and my front tyre still has a very slow puncture, but will leave it for the time being. The Sturmey Archer gears being only 3, are somewhat limited and I could do with a lower gear for climbs. Now and again my pedals slip in 2nd. Maybe the hub needs oil. If anyone is reading this, please google "what oil, Sturmey Archer hub?" and preferably sms me on 0044 7877 578615 or email answer. Most grateful hopeful.
Gotta go now.
S.  23/10/14 0700
Hi again, its 1920hrs 23rd
Been an extraordinary day. Set out after a cup of tea  typically sweetened from a flask, and a quick browse through some emails from home and SA.
Met with a significant climb from the town and some exhilarating speedy down hill zooms where I felt most comfortable in the lane centre  as the road surface and the wind made being in the middle the right place to be on one hand, but on the other, ever concerned about which truck or bus may be lurking and approaching often at a great pace.
Soon the hard shoulder disappeared and things began to get narrow. Courage remains as long as I can hear the traffic from behind, quite possible until traffic approaches from ahead. Then it's laps  of the Gods stuff.
The crescendo has me wobbling as close to the edge of the tarmac as I can be. Warning hoots prevail which happily I have become somewhat immune to. A certain determination and concentration is essential to avoid a wobble, then whoosh, they all go by with a rush of wind and a whine.
On one such occasion, I noticed that a lorry from behind had slowed  to wait for a safe opportunity to go by, and as it did so, I waved in thanks with thumbs up. The lorry trundled slowly by and pulled up just ahead. A fellow driver emerged and greeted me, and clambered down from his high cab. A monster Mercedes carrying electricity plant. After exchanging greetings again and my thanks for his caution, he remarked about my good choice of bright yellow clothing and begged me to be most cautious as not all drivers were.
Well, what the hell. Before long my sturdy steed was strapped to the back of his container, and yours truly was enjoying a great view from a very tall cab.
Long and tall of it is here I am after being carried some 200kms in  Uyole  Mbeya only 100kms from the northern border with Malawi.
Staying at the Single Nice Inn. Again in the back streets which is my advice for those who seek good places beyond the visible which seem often overrated.
Shower even works and there's hot water which is welcome in the higher altitudes. I've heard that its mostly down hill to lake Nyasa and Malawi so most likely I will follow its shore for some time.
Bought lunch for Kasimu at Twiga Cafe in Igowa  on the rhs facing west. Fish steak the best yet, Satu from lake Victoria, heavenly.
We exchanged a great deal of conversation and I think I learned a little more Swahili though not conscious of it as usual. He had me chatting on his phone to various folks back in Dar and those he or we met along the way.
The countryside along the way varied dramatically from dry savannah to marshy wetlands. Rivers both dry and flowing. Here as in many previous parts visited a ring of mountains are visible to the south and west. South is my heading tomorrow.
Agriculture here abounds but not intensive, most of those I saw were tilling by hand.  Its planting time here though bananas, avo, oranges, nuts, potatoes, cabbages, onions, greens, peaches and tomatoes are all available at the local market. Many fruit trees can be seen along the roads and earlier in my journey there were many large areas dedicated to cactus.
Best bird yet was I think a Golden Eagle and I wish the camera was ready as it flew by quite closely.
Otherwise seems that wild animals are well camo'd or stay well clear from the road. Goats galore and often tied as well as some cows to  thorny grazing patches.
Everyone here has something to offer with stores and markets abundant. Several folks have mentioned corruption in govt. and today we were stopped by the police road check and a uniformed lady asked Kassimu for money and I'm glad to say that he told her he'd no money to give. Thus not encouraging bribes inevitably making the roads a more dangerous place. After all, the object is to check vehicle condition and insurance but it seems that a bribe will allow an unroadworthy vehicle to pass by.
Kuaga for now.

Tuesday 21 October 2014

Early evening here and its been a restful, rewarding day. I visited the local hospital and met a young lady again (last time in Dar Airport while we chatted the early hours waiting for sun up) from Shrewsbury. She is hoping to be a doctor and has volunteered here for a month.
She seemed happy some 10 days later and is at present helping in the maternity ward. Says that the staff are on the whole good and make do the best they can. However one lady in labour had been screaming but no one came to her aid which was disturbing. Apparently still born  , so mystery as to what the cause was i.e. neglect, or maybe they new the baby had died before birth and had other priorities. Dramatic.
I am at Neema cafe above the craft store downstairs. It is well known for its art which is made by disabled people and the staff here are deaf and occasionally quite noisy when joking. Started by an Anglican pastor some years ago, it seems well known and thrives as a non profit entity.
Also managed to get some water purifying solution, some panadol and tablets in case of a runny tummy which I am glad not to report. All above as insurance for the road ahead and at below a pound for all 3, a steal and congratulations to myself for not stocking up back home at greatly inflated rip off Britain prices.
Also bought a paw paw , two oranges and some tomatoes for about the same price.
So paw paw for pudding tonight as its way to heavy to carry. Hope I can share it around.
Looking at the map, the next town of size seems to be about 90km away, an easy run if I get an early start.
Seems I was right about the war ry position of thus place says wiki, late 1800s found the Germans creating a fort to defend against a native tribe which subsequently made it theirs.
Until next time. From Iringa.
Simon.

Uphill to Iringa

Its 0245hrs and I'm laying on a sofa in an open to the elements living area of the Crocodile Camp alongside the Ruaha River 12 kms from the Ruaha Mbuyuni,  the latter of those two the name for a Boabab tree. Busy chatting with Gutram and have been doing so for what seems several hours. It is now 0435hrs.
Got to sleep earlier in the tent but have woken with stomach cramp which has been severe. Could be a malaria symptom, or something I have drunk or eaten. Anyhow the pain has forced me up and I wondered into the living area and woke Gutram and his brother who produced a paracetomol which I have gratefully taken along with an ibuprofen I have. To avoid Malaria hopefully, i am taking Doxycycline which I gather is 90 % effective but reduced on Alcohol intake and I have enjoyed the occasional bottle of very good Safari beer. There are reported stomach cramps from this medication too so all a bit uncertain at the moment. Lay chatting last night until 0500hrs and took another paracetomol then. Ongoing cramp, but mild at present 0830hrs and I have been given a couple more tabs for the rd. 
May hang about for a little breakfast and number two's to see what happens. I'm about 12km from Umbuyuni with over a hundred to Iringa. Now sitting on a bungalow porch overlooking the wide, quite fast flowing river which contains many crocs I'm told. Here we are on the steeper concave bank, and no crocs visible. Elephants also roam this territory, but this morning I have seen only monkeys. One of which is cautiously approaching and scampered by. There are many and seem to be getting up to typical, quite naughty, monkey business.  No qualms about nicking stuff.
Yesterday was a slog of a cycle through the hills and happily passed the mountains. The rd follows the river coarse and a lot of the time was spent in or around the river valley. Drinking water is always a priority for me, so whenever there is a refill opportunity, I'm at it in a flash and at the same time joyfully binge on the precious stuff I had earlier been sipping cautiously.
Yesterday I passed a travel in and bought a warm Fanta Orange. Their generator, normally operating the fridge had busted because they had ignorantly run it without oil. I asked how their water was and Christina the manager showed me round the back and a little up the hill to a plastic pipe protruding from the ground. This pipe must divert spring water and although a little coloured from the rain, is surely good to drink. I cannot rely on bottled water for not being able to carry enough and I'd have spent a small fortune by now. Its just not always available and about 50p a litre. Best water has been from the manually pumped ground wells which have seen a massive installation program during this last year I read. Great work, a real bonus for the rural folk. I'm on the look out for a similar hand pump to use with the river water back at the farm in Magalies. I want to install a  shower so need to pump water into an tank say 6 to 7 feet high with a simple flap and hole arrangement. Any suggestions welcome.
This morning it is a cloudy sky with a handy westerly breeze so hopefully get going again soon if my tummy settles.
Would like to make Iringa by this evening so will probably try to hitch a lift from another lorry if possible. Not all can carry a bike and often they have passengers already. Need to be lucky.
Got away from the Crocodile camp after 10am once the proprietor had cautioned me again about all the highway robbers I was likely to meet. If so, these robbers must be a very friendly peaceful lot. Kept thinking that she was emphasising how safe her premises were compared to the world outside. Got my first puncture yesterday and finally fixed same by the third time.
Ended up discarding a round patch which kept lifting. Square one seems to have done the trick.
Now typing this at 1950hrs having just had a really good fish and rice meal which the inn keeper lady cooked for me.  Best fish yet and some way from the sea now. Could have been a river fish but whatever, mighty tasty. Most amazing bit though, is dinner and breakfast included per night in my comfy accommodation for under £4. Paid a fiver last night to pitch my tent but that was a good spot too. My task set today was to reach Iringa, in the southern highlands. Notably cooler here with glass in the window frames unlike everywhere else so far that had bars and mosquito screens. Just heard a mozzie so will use the net hung from the ceiling as there is no fan.
Room is small but have large bed and Swahili tv.  So here I am in Iringa having covered the 130km journey at a very slow pace considering. At one stage it was a ten km uphill crawl at no more than10kph.  I'd been lucky after all and managed to arrange a lift in another lorry for all but 15kms travelled today. Very pleased for that since I felt I needed the rest after my tummy troubles which appear to be alleviating with every fart. Must have the wind hopefully.
Lots of baboons near the rd, but not seen any elephants yet which is disappointing. Probably passed several without a glimpse during the last two days. Boabab trees here galore and some have flowers and fruit. Grabbed what I thought to have been fruit, but it turned out to be the round green flower bud. The fruit is same colour I thing but oblong and so far out of reach. Magnificent trees but people here use them as bill boards. One had a rude message about what some fella was doing to sheep. Approaching Iringa I noticed that there seemed to be less litter lining the road. Either the message is getting through to stop littering, or they do a cleanup round here unlike  the journey so far. I seemed to be getting used to the litter strewn roads somehow perhaps looking beyond to the rivers, lakes and mountains. This evening I have noticed the second tv program clearly about trying to educate folks and discourage the use of plastic bags. It is those and plastic bottles that seem to be the major culprits. Seems drivers and passengers alike, must fling all they can from their windows. In the reserve, I noticed piles of plastic bottle waste gathered so some effort in cleaning up slowly takes place.
Iringa is off the main road, 2kms up a steep hill. Seems it may have been a strategic easily defendable position in the past, with good views of the river valley below.
Got here quite late at about 6pm so have yet to explore. Will do in a jiff and try to find a WiFi spot to download the waffle.
No luck, the hotel i was directed to trumped on the cold drink, but WiFi not working. The night walk was a bit challenging through  sparse street lighting , broken roads and pavements. Typically i was only muzungu and walking too, very unusual and strange attracting attention, but folks always friendly and willing to help with directions for example. There is a pub round the corner and i downed a quick Safari before retiring to bed.
 Had a really good sleep and tummy seems settled. Staying at the Karibu C J Lodge. Its 0730 and floors are being scrubbed. Breakfast to follow and then another wander round maybe with the bike to cover more ground. Perhaps there is a library.
Kifungua Kinwa (breakfast) plain omlette and fresh white bread roll and flask of tea. Can of instant coffee resulted from enquiring if flask was coffee or tea? Then luke warm jug of water appeared for a warm cup of coffee which I heated gradually from the tea. Thus was drinking Toffee !
There is a great avo tree outside my room. First one I've seen and its drooping with fruit. Not sure how long a wait is needed for those that have fallen, to eat? Maybe take one with me if there is space.
Staying for second night here and will head on tomorrow early hopefully.
S.

Friday 17 October 2014

The lady servers at the canteens are rather inclined to give you a dollop of everything on offer. Handing me a partitioned plate full, I reminded her of not wanting the meat. So she lifted the few pieces out of the plate with tongs, then frowned at the needing to scoop its gravy with a spoon and instead handing me the plate which now had a good portion of meat strew sauce. Have to say it was jolly tasty!
Later on I spotted while having stopped for a rest, a dust rd running the same way so on I hopped while thinking how nice it would be to have this smooth sand track winding through the trees instead of the noisy, heat filled atmosphere which of the main rd.
Eventually arrived at a small village and sat for a rest on the chair they produced for this weary traveller.
First thing that happened is you are suddenly surrounded by near enough all the village residents especially children. Gawping at this white stranger, even more so with his choice of transport. Just hugely curious but in a most respectful, cheerful and friendly manner. The Masai can be aloof, as they go about in a determined manner sporting colourful traditional dress. But interrupt them from their proud trance and you will find they are most friendly.
It was a Masai gentleman with a son who later escorted me away from the road and at least half a mile into the bush. Mostly shrubs, small thorn trees and occasional baobab, we walked to meet the homestead consisting of two wives, seven children with a first born well on the way from his younger, second or junior wife.
My Pitch with matress for Daniel and his brother, my protectors.

Samuel the youngest of their sons age 2.

The family herd.  Never fresher milk!

They offered me their own bedroom in one of three small houses, but I insisted on pitching my tent some yards from one of the houses. I think that these were modernising Masai, as two of the houses were permanent structures and they had a double bed and suitcases, such items not suitable for roaming with their cattle to new pastures. Think they are hunter gatherers but still wielding cell phones along with their cloak and sticks.
One of the sons, Daniel, spoke a tiny bit of English and attended school. I must have used the word YOU several times pointing at him. Soon he would say You go somewhere for example, meaning that he was going somewhere. Then he would say "I" meaning me and not he in another sentance. Once I clicked this funny but confusing mix up, i left him to it . So long as both he and I new what was being meant that was fine and simpler that trying to explain. Someone else can try later perhaps after a no doubt confusing session.
That night he and a brother slept on a mattress outside my tent, suggestive of security measures. Most likely not needed, but a nice gesture.
Got the tent up at twilight then wondered across to the kraal while they milked the cows for the evening supply of the most wonderful milk and meal of rice, vegetables. I contributed some bananas, an avo and some dates.
Warmed fresh milk and dates make a fine dessert.
Very tired, a solid sleep followed onto the a due filled bright morning.
Breakfast, some more of lovely milk with tea sugar and doe cakes. Exchanging contact numbers and a final of 3 calls and a letter drafted to the local pastor who spoke English and assured me I was in good hands. Running low on shillings, i gave the husband 4000 and he promptly handed 1000 of it to Samuel the two year old whose face lit up with all that he could get for his spend, and the rest to his senior wife.
Daniel escorted me back to the road past another similar, but more traditional looking homestead.
So far I have seen several wild animals. First day out, came across a buffalo, two elephants and a giraffe. Alas, only spectacular metal work, being life size.
Some grass hoppers, many birds and a troop of baboons, all of which real. The word I'm getting from folks is that there is apparently a 30 km stretch of road through the reserve on my route to Iringa, which could be dangerous with some animals notably Elephant, Giraffe , lions, and surely leopards and buffalo too.
Motorcycles can travel but not sure about a bike, maybe a lift will be needed. Since arriving here I have had a couple of meals with a joung doctor here and earlier he had heard from a welder who welded my wobbly water bottle onto my bike frame, that two motorcycles had been travelling through this area when the second of the two was attacked and killed by a lion whilst riding along. Leapt out of the bush onto him so says the Bush Telegraph.
Maybe I can creep by unnoticed with my relatively quiet transport.
(Pan right) Zoomed so you can see how much my fine would be if I ran over and Elephant!
For the final 10kms or so I hitched a lift on a lorry which I beleive was carrying cooking oil to the Congo of all things.  African here seem very keen on deep frying their food.  The driver and I had a good meal (tab mine by way of thankyou) at the canteen which he often vistits.  The fish I had was excellent.  The best so far and it was I was told, Satu, a kind of cat fish from lake Victoria.  It was a generous fillet which had been stewed, unlike the typical fried fish so often served.

First of a good few lorries who lifted me over the last 10km of the Mikuni Reserve.  I had not seen any animals other than hearing a scampering antelope until from high up in the lorry, there were some Zebra and various buck along with a buck road kill and some vultures circling away to the right.  Had excellent Satu at this canteen.

Satu rice and veg. with Ginger Beer.  Really good.


Facilius the GP has been most kind and typical of the friendly folk I have been meeting. He showed me his weekly digs today where he shares premises with his sister in law and her children. He has his own children attending various schools as boarders I gather and a wife who works and waits for his weekly return home after his work in both the state and private health providers. Next year Facilius expects to buy a Toyota car but has also assured me that he will ride his cycle too. A mountain bike I  understand which was left at home some 60kms away. He borrowed a small bike from his employee so we could ride to the canteen for lunch earlier, he who works serving in a small convenience store which is Facilius's side line.
General Practitioner Facilias and I having lunch while the welder sorted my bottle holder for 50P.

2 nights here in Norogorro


My plan is to get away early in the morning, ideally before 6 so that I can make good  progress before the inevitable heat.
Well rested I'll be after 3 nights and  two days in this busy town nestled against some impressive mountains. Seems you can get anything here from modern electronics and tv's to tailor made clothing if you choose. I was tempted to have a shirt made. Maybe further on down the road.
Riding the loaded bike through these hills is a struggle especially in the unrelenting sun and reflected road heat. I am no anorak with this so have and will adopt carry me tactics on occasions. So the last 35kms to morogoro were spent in the back of a mini pickup. Rather uncomfortable but preferable to a night ride or another day's target. Pickup driver also happy for the fuel contribution.

Got myself booked into a reasonably rated hotel 15000 shillings or about £6. Went searching for an atm which was empty, but an Indian owner if the petrol station nearby changed 20 US dollars for nearly equivalent shillings and a Pepsi.  The following day I was able to find a better place, the Ukulima nearer to town and better value, where I spent a further two nights.
At least i was then able to pay for my room and a beer in a nearby pub. Castle Stout, full of the iron I need. The nice burly bar lady even gave me a lesson in Swahili and had me repeating all sorts of strange sounds. What with learning Hungarian, my old brain is too full of new stuff which does'nt hang around for more than 5 minutes usually these days anyway.

 Also met another Daniel who indulged in a ritual annual puff of Norogorro's finest with me. That along with some sweet red and watered down fortified wine ,  good fruit and simple value wholesome food, Morogoro is a nice place to be. The cold showers are to look forward to as well.  No point in hot water as its too hot and one needs to cool off mostly.
All for now, join me if you can!
S.