At Njaya Lodge Nkhata Bay. Paradise here, swimming in the lake and chilling out. There is scuba here but will borrow some snorkelling gear. Folks very laid back here and I've been up since before 6, been for a dip and waiting for someone to turn up and offer me some breakfast which apparently starts at 7 but as I'm the only one here right now, wish me luck!
There is a nearby lodge that's more popular where I met with fellow cyclists and others last night for a pizza and a couple of local Carlsberg Kuche Kuche beers. The ride down from Mzuzu yesterday was exhilarating as mostly downhill though into the heat of the low lakelands. There are two other proper cyclists here with fancy German touring bikes. Sporting conceptually the same rear wheel hubs as my old Sturmey Archer 3 speed, but with a selection of 12 gears plus all the modern high tech nav gear linked to their iPhones and the net. Beats my  map photos and compass, but way over the top really. I say real cyclists, as these guys travelled way further and are inclined to be anally anaracical purests. Garry the west countryman has clocked 7500 miles already all the way from Blighty and Swiss German Urs started from Germany to Istanbul, then Uganda onwards.
So I feel like a pretender though each mile I clock on my old Raleigh shopping bike must surely equate to greater effort compared to their fancy get ups. Garry sold his metalic blue, white piped leather seated Jaguar in order to pay for his fancy touring cycles machine. Its rugged with a dynamo that charges all the computerised comms and satnav gear which keeps track of his every move and records same on a fancy website that readers can browse and even send him some beer money if they are so inclined. Should you do so, (link previously referenced) please make sure you request that he also buys me one too, thank you.
Its 7th of Nov already but too good hereto be moving on just yet. Been two nights so far and had planned at least 4 or maybe more. Swam round two bays yesterday with some snorkelling gear yesterday with flip flops tied to my belt. Took 40minutes or so, quite a challenge as the wind was up causing a fine  swell. Waves on shore big enough to body surf. Really is like fresh water sea here at times with golden crunchy, sandy beach. Fresh fish being cooked on the beach while dodging sweet falling mango filled trees. Couldn't take any money with me yesterday ad I swam to the resort then had lunch with NZ Ian at Rasta/ Artist Kelvin's One Love Café, then dinner last night at Mayorka's, the more popular of the resorts. Need still to pay both bills after welcome advanced credit.
Now waiting for a steak sandwich for lunch after a late morning swim while sipping a Kuche Kuche. Life could not get much better than this.
As I swam round the bay yesterday and the previous evening I had walked unnoticeably with another, I got rather lost returning last night. Ended up walking thrice up the steep hill, each of the first two times, convinced I'd taken the wrong turn. Even with the full moon, the unfamiliar terrain together with a walk across the beach proved to be a trying task and I nearly retraced my steps in order to swim back. 3.30am apparently when I finally rocked up at the hotel and my garden pitched tent. Well groggy this morning at 0730 feeling overslept, but nothing that a cool shower could 'nt deal with.
Think I'll venture into the busy town this evening for a meal after paying the bills left behind from yesterday.
Looking forward to getting some good fresh local grilled Butter fish with some rice and veg. Gonna try and go canoe fishing one morning for about an hour at 5am. Lines are baited and left out to be collected at around 4pm later in the day. The Scampi, around 3 cm long,are used to bait the hooks.
Planning a 40 minute canoe paddle tomorrow to visit a sight where people leap off high rocks above  into the sea.
This evening Ian from NZ and I have walked into the town for a meal. I've ordered fish and chips with a side salad.
Twas good grub, fish was a fillet of lake fish, not sure which. Done via casserole rather than deep fried with a pile of chips and a good salad. Bit dearer than I expected, but at just under £6 with a beer and cold drink in a comfortable environment, who can complain?
Today Ian and I borrowed a Canadian type canoe to paddle south past the bay and its headland to the Rock jumping beach. I'd  heard ten meters, the highest leap, but it was more like 6m so it looked a synch but as always when perched above looking down, ones bravery begins to dilute.  Clambering up across the sun baked rocks requires some nifty foot work, bit like the Cha Cha, necessary to avoid baking one's soft European feet.
Ian went first so my courage had to accumulate once again and with a splosh my old dignity  remained in tact.
Good news is, we only managed to tip up and over once when Ian clambered out of the canoe for the first time,  and I toppled over head first into some shallow water, accompanied by some raucous laughter from folks on the beach behind. Placing the phone and camera into a sealed plastic bag paid off after all.
Lunch was bread, tomatoes, onions and some dried scampi, one of the staples for the lake livers. Pudding of bananas and peanuts which we were obliged to share with some local children enjoying their weekend away from school by the lake. They ate most of the fish too along with water we carried.
It's going to be hard leaving this place, now contemplating boarding as ferry for Likoma Island early tomorrow morning may leave the bike and other stuff here for a few days. There are many miles to go and time is shortening.
So highlights today were the paddling, leaping, snorkelling, and the curious Fish Eagle which glided close by with its distinctive call. Maybe it was surprised to see two white mzungus in a canoe most often containing Mafrica black ones.
until next time,
S.